NEW HAMPTON, Iowa – Zip's AW Direct, a leading provider of heavy-duty wreckers, rotators, car carriers, service bodies and industrial trailers, proudly announces the addition of Johnnie Manier to its equipment sales team. This strategic hire strengthens Zip’s ability to deliver knowledgeable, hands-on consultation to customers across Michigan.
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\nBased out of our location in the Detroit suburb of Taylor, Johnnie brings to his new position more than a decade of professional experience in the trucking industry. No stranger to coast-to-coast industrial hauling, he offers firsthand knowledge of equipment operation, real-world road conditions and the day-to-day demands professional operators face.
\n“We’re excited to officially welcome Johnnie to our sales team,” said Eric Albertson, Executive Director of Equipment Sales at Zip’s. “From the moment he walked in the door, it was clear he brings great energy, strong people skills and a passion for the towing industry. With his background in the trucking industry, Johnnie brings valuable knowledge of over-the-road operations, weight laws and axle limits.”
\nAs an Equipment Sales Specialist, Johnnie will guide customers toward equipment solutions that enhance performance, safety and profitability. A Detroit native, he understands the work ethic and values that define the operators he serves. He is family-oriented, married with a daughter and deeply connected to his community.
\n“Johnnie will be the face of our Michigan storefront, supporting our loyal local customers while also playing a key role on our national sales team, helping customers across the country find the right trucks for their needs,” Albertson said. “We’re thrilled to have Johnnie on board and look forward to the impact he’ll make. Be sure to stop in and meet him!”
\nWith Johnnie’s addition, Zip’s AW Direct continues to invest in experienced professionals who understand the industry from the ground up and are dedicated to supporting customers with expertise, integrity and service. Johnnie can be reached in the office at 800-222-6047, ext. 70008, by email at or by cell at 313-720-8440.
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HAMPTON, Iowa – Zip's AW Direct, a leading provider of heavy-duty wreckers, rotators, car carriers, service bodies and industrial trailers, proudly announces the addition of Johnnie Manier to its equipment sales team. This strategic hire strengthens Zip’s ability to deliver knowledgeable, hands-on consultation to customers across Michigan.
\nBased out of our location in the Detroit suburb of Taylor, Johnnie brings to his new position more than a decade of professional experience in the trucking industry. No stranger to coast-to-coast industrial hauling, he offers firsthand knowledge of equipment operation, real-world road conditions and the day-to-day demands professional operators face.
\n“We’re excited to officially welcome Johnnie to our sales team,” said Eric Albertson, Executive Director of Equipment Sales at Zip’s. “From the moment he walked in the door, it was clear he brings great energy, strong people skills and a passion for the towing industry. With his background in the trucking industry, Johnnie brings valuable knowledge of over-the-road operations, weight laws and axle limits.”
\nAs an Equipment Sales Specialist, Johnnie will guide customers toward equipment solutions that enhance performance, safety and profitability. A Detroit native, he understands the work ethic and values that define the operators he serves. He is family-oriented, married with a daughter and deeply connected to his community.
\n“Johnnie will be the face of our Michigan storefront, supporting our loyal local customers while also playing a key role on our national sales team, helping customers across the country find the right trucks for their needs,” Albertson said. “We’re thrilled to have Johnnie on board and look forward to the impact he’ll make. Be sure to stop in and meet him!”
\nWith Johnnie’s addition, Zip’s AW Direct continues to invest in experienced professionals who understand the industry from the ground up and are dedicated to supporting customers with expertise, integrity and service. Johnnie can be reached in the office at 800-222-6047, ext. 70008, by email at or by cell at 313-720-8440.
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\nBased out of our location in the Detroit suburb of Taylor, Johnnie brings to his new position more than a decade of professional experience in the trucking industry. No stranger to coast-to-coast industrial hauling, he offers firsthand knowledge of equipment operation, real-world road conditions and the day-to-day demands professional operators face.
\n“We’re excited to officially welcome Johnnie to our sales team,” said Eric Albertson, Executive Director of Equipment Sales at Zip’s. “From the moment he walked in the door, it was clear he brings great energy, strong people skills and a passion for the towing industry. With his background in the trucking industry, Johnnie brings valuable knowledge of over-the-road operations, weight laws and axle limits.”
\nAs an Equipment Sales Specialist, Johnnie will guide customers toward equipment solutions that enhance performance, safety and profitability. A Detroit native, he understands the work ethic and values that define the operators he serves. He is family-oriented, married with a daughter and deeply connected to his community.
\n“Johnnie will be the face of our Michigan storefront, supporting our loyal local customers while also playing a key role on our national sales team, helping customers across the country find the right trucks for their needs,” Albertson said. “We’re thrilled to have Johnnie on board and look forward to the impact he’ll make. Be sure to stop in and meet him!”
\nWith Johnnie’s addition, Zip’s AW Direct continues to invest in experienced professionals who understand the industry from the ground up and are dedicated to supporting customers with expertise, integrity and service. Johnnie can be reached in the office at 800-222-6047, ext. 70008, by email at or by cell at 313-720-8440.
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\nBased out of our location in the Detroit suburb of Taylor, Johnnie brings to his new position more than a decade of professional experience in the trucking industry. No stranger to coast-to-coast industrial hauling, he offers firsthand knowledge of equipment operation, real-world road conditions and the day-to-day demands professional operators face.
\n“We’re excited to officially welcome Johnnie to our sales team,” said Eric Albertson, Executive Director of Equipment Sales at Zip’s. “From the moment he walked in the door, it was clear he brings great energy, strong people skills and a passion for the towing industry. With his background in the trucking industry, Johnnie brings valuable knowledge of over-the-road operations, weight laws and axle limits.”
\nAs an Equipment Sales Specialist, Johnnie will guide customers toward equipment solutions that enhance performance, safety and profitability. A Detroit native, he understands the work ethic and values that define the operators he serves. He is family-oriented, married with a daughter and deeply connected to his community.
\n“Johnnie will be the face of our Michigan storefront, supporting our loyal local customers while also playing a key role on our national sales team, helping customers across the country find the right trucks for their needs,” Albertson said. “We’re thrilled to have Johnnie on board and look forward to the impact he’ll make. Be sure to stop in and meet him!”
\nWith Johnnie’s addition, Zip’s AW Direct continues to invest in experienced professionals who understand the industry from the ground up and are dedicated to supporting customers with expertise, integrity and service. Johnnie can be reached in the office at 800-222-6047, ext. 70008, by email at or by cell at 313-720-8440.
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Binders","id":192201204492,"includeDefaultCustomCss":null,"isCaptchaRequired":true,"isCrawlableByBots":false,"isDraft":false,"isInstantEmailEnabled":false,"isPublished":true,"isSocialPublishingEnabled":false,"keywords":[],"label":"Chain Binders","language":"en","lastEditSessionId":null,"lastEditUpdateId":null,"layoutSections":{},"legacyBlogTabid":null,"legacyId":null,"legacyPostGuid":null,"linkRelCanonicalUrl":"","listTemplate":"","liveDomain":"www.zips.com","mab":false,"mabExperimentId":null,"mabMaster":false,"mabVariant":false,"marketingCampaignGuids":[],"meta":{"html_title":"Chain Binders","public_access_rules":[],"public_access_rules_enabled":false,"use_featured_image":true,"tag_ids":[192169769098,192174572390,194719179289,194719586666],"topic_ids":[192169769098,192174572390,194719179289,194719586666],"post_summary":"Chains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n![\"Ratchet](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/image-2-1200x450.jpg\")
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n![\"Torque](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/image-3-1200x380.jpg\")
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n![\"Binder](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/image-4-1200x380.jpg\")
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\nRatchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\nTorque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\nHopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\nRatchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\nTorque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\nHopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\nRatchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\nTorque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\nHopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\nRatchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\nTorque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\nHopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\nChains are great for cargo securement, but you need to be sure it stays tight while on the move. The best way to do that is simple: Use a binder. Tighten the transport chain to the point that there’s no way it could budge, even if you tried to move it. What’s less simple is choosing the right binder for you. That’s what we’re here for. We’re more than happy to discuss the differences between lever binders, ratchet binders and torque binders.
\nLever binders use leverage to tighten the chain, and they all have two tension hooks. Typically, it requires more strength to use as you lock it into place by pulling down on the bar to hold it in place. Because it’s just one motion, lever binders tend to be a lot faster than either ratchet or torque binders. It’s also easier because once you’ve pulled it tight, you can get on your way. Lastly, they’re easy to store as they fold flat. This isn’t the case with torque binders or ratchet binders as they have a handle that sticks out at a 90-degree angle.
\n
Ratchet binders use a ratchet system to tighten the chain. This makes it significantly safer to use than lever binders as there isn’t a risk of the lever kicking back and hitting the user. As a result, you can get them as tight as you need, without fear. And as tight as you need should be stressed as the ratcheting mechanism allows you to do just that. You can fine-tune how tight the chains are, even without a cheater bar. Finally, ratchet binders have a 50:1 mechanical advantage compared to lever binders, which only have a 25:1 mechanical advantage.
\n
Torque binders use a cordless drill to apply tension to a chain. Not only are they capable of handling chains between 5/16” and 5/8” and a working load limit of up to 13,000 pounds, they are also extremely quick compared to the ratchet binder because you don’t have to manually use the bar. It also comes with the safety of ratchet binders because there are no risks of the bar kicking back. Plus, you have full control over how tight you get the chain. It’s the best of both worlds.
\n
Hopefully, this dive into the types of binders has helped you understand them a bit more. Our goal is to help you make informed decisions about what kind of products you put your money towards. One last note, before getting yourself a chain binder, make sure it has a high enough working load limit for what you’re securing. With that in mind, feel free to learn more about rigging from our other blog posts, or take a look at our Chain Binder department to shop for the binder of your towing, automotive and over the road uses.
\n\n
Once you have selected the right strap for the load, you need to prepare the strap for transport, and that starts with daily inspection. Here are some helpful hints on what to look for:
\n![\"Prepare](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/img-1-600x330.png\")
![\"Zip's](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/zips-tips-2-400x255.png\")
To clean your straps, soak them in warm water with a mild detergent. Avoid bleach and scrub to loosen any dirt and debris. Rinse and let air dry. Lubricating the ratcheting mechanism will also prolong the life of your straps.
\nNext, make sure the WLL (Working Load Limit) of the strap exceeds the weight of the load. Additional straps may be needed to adequately and safely secure the cargo or equipment. Follow these simple steps to secure the strap to the load:
\nOnce you have reached your destination, you can now loosen the strap for unloading. On the handle, locate the release mechanism and simultaneously pull up on the release and push down on the handle to get the strap to unspool from the mandrel. This may take some effort, depending on how new or how well lubricated the ratchet is.
\nOnce loosened, remove the strap from the load and remove the hooks. Be sure to take the time to neatly wind the strap for storage. Not only will it take up less room, this housekeeping measure will prevent damage from other objects while in storage. Smaller straps can be hand wound, but for larger straps, strap winders are available to simplify the process.
\nFollowing these steps will help you to use a ratchet strap correctly and safely. It is important to remember to choose the right ratchet strap for your load and to inspect the ratchet strap before each use. Make sure you double check the ratchet strap after you have secured the load to make sure it is secure and safe for transport. And lastly, always follow safety instructions when using ratchet straps.
","rss_summary":"\n
Once you have selected the right strap for the load, you need to prepare the strap for transport, and that starts with daily inspection. Here are some helpful hints on what to look for:
\nTo clean your straps, soak them in warm water with a mild detergent. Avoid bleach and scrub to loosen any dirt and debris. Rinse and let air dry. Lubricating the ratcheting mechanism will also prolong the life of your straps.
\nNext, make sure the WLL (Working Load Limit) of the strap exceeds the weight of the load. Additional straps may be needed to adequately and safely secure the cargo or equipment. Follow these simple steps to secure the strap to the load:
\nOnce you have reached your destination, you can now loosen the strap for unloading. On the handle, locate the release mechanism and simultaneously pull up on the release and push down on the handle to get the strap to unspool from the mandrel. This may take some effort, depending on how new or how well lubricated the ratchet is.
\nOnce loosened, remove the strap from the load and remove the hooks. Be sure to take the time to neatly wind the strap for storage. Not only will it take up less room, this housekeeping measure will prevent damage from other objects while in storage. Smaller straps can be hand wound, but for larger straps, strap winders are available to simplify the process.
\nFollowing these steps will help you to use a ratchet strap correctly and safely. It is important to remember to choose the right ratchet strap for your load and to inspect the ratchet strap before each use. Make sure you double check the ratchet strap after you have secured the load to make sure it is secure and safe for transport. And lastly, always follow safety instructions when using ratchet straps.
","enable_google_amp_output_override":false,"generate_json_ld_enabled":true,"blog_post_schedule_task_uid":null,"blog_publish_to_social_media_task":"DONE_NOT_SENT","blog_publish_instant_email_task_uid":null,"blog_publish_instant_email_campaign_id":null,"blog_publish_instant_email_retry_count":null,"keywords":[],"composition_id":0,"is_crawlable_by_bots":false,"header":null,"published_at":1755717170431,"head_html":null,"footer_html":null,"attached_stylesheets":[],"enable_domain_stylesheets":null,"include_default_custom_css":null,"layout_sections":{},"past_mab_experiment_ids":[],"deleted_by":null,"featured_image_alt_text":"","enable_layout_stylesheets":null,"tweet":null,"tweet_at":null,"campaign_name":null,"campaign_utm":null,"meta_keywords":null,"meta_description":"Learn how to select, inspect, use, and safely release a ratchet strap for cargo and equipment transport, including daily inspection tips, cleaning, and proper tightening and storage 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Once you have selected the right strap for the load, you need to prepare the strap for transport, and that starts with daily inspection. Here are some helpful hints on what to look for:
\nTo clean your straps, soak them in warm water with a mild detergent. Avoid bleach and scrub to loosen any dirt and debris. Rinse and let air dry. Lubricating the ratcheting mechanism will also prolong the life of your straps.
\nNext, make sure the WLL (Working Load Limit) of the strap exceeds the weight of the load. Additional straps may be needed to adequately and safely secure the cargo or equipment. Follow these simple steps to secure the strap to the load:
\nOnce you have reached your destination, you can now loosen the strap for unloading. On the handle, locate the release mechanism and simultaneously pull up on the release and push down on the handle to get the strap to unspool from the mandrel. This may take some effort, depending on how new or how well lubricated the ratchet is.
\nOnce loosened, remove the strap from the load and remove the hooks. Be sure to take the time to neatly wind the strap for storage. Not only will it take up less room, this housekeeping measure will prevent damage from other objects while in storage. Smaller straps can be hand wound, but for larger straps, strap winders are available to simplify the process.
\nFollowing these steps will help you to use a ratchet strap correctly and safely. It is important to remember to choose the right ratchet strap for your load and to inspect the ratchet strap before each use. Make sure you double check the ratchet strap after you have secured the load to make sure it is secure and safe for transport. And lastly, always follow safety instructions when using ratchet straps.
","postBodyRss":"\n
Once you have selected the right strap for the load, you need to prepare the strap for transport, and that starts with daily inspection. Here are some helpful hints on what to look for:
\nTo clean your straps, soak them in warm water with a mild detergent. Avoid bleach and scrub to loosen any dirt and debris. Rinse and let air dry. Lubricating the ratcheting mechanism will also prolong the life of your straps.
\nNext, make sure the WLL (Working Load Limit) of the strap exceeds the weight of the load. Additional straps may be needed to adequately and safely secure the cargo or equipment. Follow these simple steps to secure the strap to the load:
\nOnce you have reached your destination, you can now loosen the strap for unloading. On the handle, locate the release mechanism and simultaneously pull up on the release and push down on the handle to get the strap to unspool from the mandrel. This may take some effort, depending on how new or how well lubricated the ratchet is.
\nOnce loosened, remove the strap from the load and remove the hooks. Be sure to take the time to neatly wind the strap for storage. Not only will it take up less room, this housekeeping measure will prevent damage from other objects while in storage. Smaller straps can be hand wound, but for larger straps, strap winders are available to simplify the process.
\nFollowing these steps will help you to use a ratchet strap correctly and safely. It is important to remember to choose the right ratchet strap for your load and to inspect the ratchet strap before each use. Make sure you double check the ratchet strap after you have secured the load to make sure it is secure and safe for transport. And lastly, always follow safety instructions when using ratchet straps.
","postEmailContent":"\n
Once you have selected the right strap for the load, you need to prepare the strap for transport, and that starts with daily inspection. Here are some helpful hints on what to look for:
\nTo clean your straps, soak them in warm water with a mild detergent. Avoid bleach and scrub to loosen any dirt and debris. Rinse and let air dry. Lubricating the ratcheting mechanism will also prolong the life of your straps.
\nNext, make sure the WLL (Working Load Limit) of the strap exceeds the weight of the load. Additional straps may be needed to adequately and safely secure the cargo or equipment. Follow these simple steps to secure the strap to the load:
\nOnce you have reached your destination, you can now loosen the strap for unloading. On the handle, locate the release mechanism and simultaneously pull up on the release and push down on the handle to get the strap to unspool from the mandrel. This may take some effort, depending on how new or how well lubricated the ratchet is.
\nOnce loosened, remove the strap from the load and remove the hooks. Be sure to take the time to neatly wind the strap for storage. Not only will it take up less room, this housekeeping measure will prevent damage from other objects while in storage. Smaller straps can be hand wound, but for larger straps, strap winders are available to simplify the process.
\nFollowing these steps will help you to use a ratchet strap correctly and safely. It is important to remember to choose the right ratchet strap for your load and to inspect the ratchet strap before each use. Make sure you double check the ratchet strap after you have secured the load to make sure it is secure and safe for transport. And lastly, always follow safety instructions when using ratchet straps.
","rssSummary":"Before any of that, if you're new to hitches, you may need a little vocabulary lesson before diving into the details. For example, tongue weight capacity is the amount of weight the hitch can take directly on top of it, while towing capacity is the amount that the hitch can tow.
\nThere are a variety of hitches, but to start, let's go over the basic types of hitches and what their weight capacities are.
\nClass 1
These hitches are typically used for bikes or small cargo carriers. They can tow up to 2,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 100 to 150 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These hitches work with a variety of vehicles, like compact or mid-size cars.
Shop all Class 1 Hitches
![\"class-1\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/class-1-400x200.png\")
Class 2
These hitches are a step up. They have a towing capacity of up to 3,500 pounds, and depending on the vehicle, a tongue weight capacity between 200 and 350 pounds. However, they need bigger cars to handle them. They are installed onto the undercarriage of mid-size cars, SUVs, minivans and compact trucks. They're perfect for ATVs, small boats and motorcycles.
Shop all Class 2 Hitches
![\"class-2\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/class-2-400x200.png\")
Class 3
These hitches are the first that are considered heavy-duty hitches. They can tow up to 10,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 350 to 500 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These are designed to be used on larger vehicles like pick-up trucks, SUVs and vans. These are great for towing campers and cargo-carrying flatbeds.
Shop all Class 3 Hitches
![\"class-3\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/class-3-400x200.png\")
Class 4
These hitches are meant for your bigger jobs. The vehicle can tow heavy loads, up to 14,000 pounds. It can also handle a tongue weight of 500 pounds or more. The specific tongue weight capacity depends on the vehicle. These can only really be used by full-sized pickups or large SUVs. They typically require a 2 or 2.5-inch receiver to fully attach it.
Shop all Class 4 Hitches
![\"class-4\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/class-4-400x200.png\")
5th-Wheel
These hitches are for people who need the most heavy-duty hitches around. They designed these massive hitches for pickup trucks and flatbed trucks. They typically have a towing weight between 12,000 and 20,000 pounds and a tongue weight capacity between 1,200 and 1,700 pounds.
Gooseneck
The last ball hitch we'll talk about is the gooseneck hitch, which is a variation of 5th-wheel hitches. The main difference is that 5th-wheel hitches are too big to use the receiver hitch. However, gooseneck hitches are designed to let you use the full bed of your truck, plus some have a ball that is removable.
Buy this Gooseneck Hitch
![\"gooseneck\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/gooseneck-600x250.png\")
These are a different type of hitch entirely. If what you're towing comes with a lunette ring, you can use a pintle hitch to latch onto it. This is much better for off-roading than ball hitches as it offers more versatility and mobility.
\n![\"pintle-hitches\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/pintle-hitches-600x250.png\")
Finally, there is often a hitch for those who can't decide between pintle and ball hitches. They do this by being both. There are more types, but with the basics listed, we can help you choose what's best for you.
Buy this Tri-Ball Hitch
![\"other-hitches-600x300\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/other-hitches-600x300.png\")
The most important thing you need to keep in mind is that your vehicle is what determines what kind of hitch you can get. What class of hitch you can get is highly dependent on what type of car you own, and the brand of hitch you can get depends on the make and model of your car. Ensure you look at what your owner's manual has to say before deciding what type of hitch to get.
\nDepending on what you're using a hitch for and how often you're using a hitch, you may need to look for something with a little extra added to it. For example, if you're going to be doing a lot of off-road towing in environments where corrosion is pretty prevalent, you may want to look into powder-coated hitches that will let the hitch last longer.
\nYou will also need to look into special devices depending on what you're towing. For example, you may want to invest in a weight distribution hitch in case what you are towing is extremely heavy. This will protect your rear axle. You may also want to look into a sway bar to prevent what you're towing from swaying too much, either due to the wind or due to a steep turn.
\nWith all this information, all you need to do is look into finding somebody to install it, and you're good to go. Knowing your specific situation is key to figuring out what kind of hitch you'll need. You can find whatever hitch you're looking for at Zip's AW Direct.
\nBefore any of that, if you're new to hitches, you may need a little vocabulary lesson before diving into the details. For example, tongue weight capacity is the amount of weight the hitch can take directly on top of it, while towing capacity is the amount that the hitch can tow.
\nThere are a variety of hitches, but to start, let's go over the basic types of hitches and what their weight capacities are.
\nClass 1
These hitches are typically used for bikes or small cargo carriers. They can tow up to 2,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 100 to 150 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These hitches work with a variety of vehicles, like compact or mid-size cars.
Shop all Class 1 Hitches
Class 2
These hitches are a step up. They have a towing capacity of up to 3,500 pounds, and depending on the vehicle, a tongue weight capacity between 200 and 350 pounds. However, they need bigger cars to handle them. They are installed onto the undercarriage of mid-size cars, SUVs, minivans and compact trucks. They're perfect for ATVs, small boats and motorcycles.
Shop all Class 2 Hitches
Class 3
These hitches are the first that are considered heavy-duty hitches. They can tow up to 10,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 350 to 500 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These are designed to be used on larger vehicles like pick-up trucks, SUVs and vans. These are great for towing campers and cargo-carrying flatbeds.
Shop all Class 3 Hitches
Class 4
These hitches are meant for your bigger jobs. The vehicle can tow heavy loads, up to 14,000 pounds. It can also handle a tongue weight of 500 pounds or more. The specific tongue weight capacity depends on the vehicle. These can only really be used by full-sized pickups or large SUVs. They typically require a 2 or 2.5-inch receiver to fully attach it.
Shop all Class 4 Hitches
5th-Wheel
These hitches are for people who need the most heavy-duty hitches around. They designed these massive hitches for pickup trucks and flatbed trucks. They typically have a towing weight between 12,000 and 20,000 pounds and a tongue weight capacity between 1,200 and 1,700 pounds.
Gooseneck
The last ball hitch we'll talk about is the gooseneck hitch, which is a variation of 5th-wheel hitches. The main difference is that 5th-wheel hitches are too big to use the receiver hitch. However, gooseneck hitches are designed to let you use the full bed of your truck, plus some have a ball that is removable.
Buy this Gooseneck Hitch
These are a different type of hitch entirely. If what you're towing comes with a lunette ring, you can use a pintle hitch to latch onto it. This is much better for off-roading than ball hitches as it offers more versatility and mobility.
\nFinally, there is often a hitch for those who can't decide between pintle and ball hitches. They do this by being both. There are more types, but with the basics listed, we can help you choose what's best for you.
Buy this Tri-Ball Hitch
The most important thing you need to keep in mind is that your vehicle is what determines what kind of hitch you can get. What class of hitch you can get is highly dependent on what type of car you own, and the brand of hitch you can get depends on the make and model of your car. Ensure you look at what your owner's manual has to say before deciding what type of hitch to get.
\nDepending on what you're using a hitch for and how often you're using a hitch, you may need to look for something with a little extra added to it. For example, if you're going to be doing a lot of off-road towing in environments where corrosion is pretty prevalent, you may want to look into powder-coated hitches that will let the hitch last longer.
\nYou will also need to look into special devices depending on what you're towing. For example, you may want to invest in a weight distribution hitch in case what you are towing is extremely heavy. This will protect your rear axle. You may also want to look into a sway bar to prevent what you're towing from swaying too much, either due to the wind or due to a steep turn.
\nWith all this information, all you need to do is look into finding somebody to install it, and you're good to go. Knowing your specific situation is key to figuring out what kind of hitch you'll need. You can find whatever hitch you're looking for at Zip's AW Direct.
\nBefore any of that, if you're new to hitches, you may need a little vocabulary lesson before diving into the details. For example, tongue weight capacity is the amount of weight the hitch can take directly on top of it, while towing capacity is the amount that the hitch can tow.
\nThere are a variety of hitches, but to start, let's go over the basic types of hitches and what their weight capacities are.
\nClass 1
These hitches are typically used for bikes or small cargo carriers. They can tow up to 2,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 100 to 150 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These hitches work with a variety of vehicles, like compact or mid-size cars.
Shop all Class 1 Hitches
Class 2
These hitches are a step up. They have a towing capacity of up to 3,500 pounds, and depending on the vehicle, a tongue weight capacity between 200 and 350 pounds. However, they need bigger cars to handle them. They are installed onto the undercarriage of mid-size cars, SUVs, minivans and compact trucks. They're perfect for ATVs, small boats and motorcycles.
Shop all Class 2 Hitches
Class 3
These hitches are the first that are considered heavy-duty hitches. They can tow up to 10,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 350 to 500 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These are designed to be used on larger vehicles like pick-up trucks, SUVs and vans. These are great for towing campers and cargo-carrying flatbeds.
Shop all Class 3 Hitches
Class 4
These hitches are meant for your bigger jobs. The vehicle can tow heavy loads, up to 14,000 pounds. It can also handle a tongue weight of 500 pounds or more. The specific tongue weight capacity depends on the vehicle. These can only really be used by full-sized pickups or large SUVs. They typically require a 2 or 2.5-inch receiver to fully attach it.
Shop all Class 4 Hitches
5th-Wheel
These hitches are for people who need the most heavy-duty hitches around. They designed these massive hitches for pickup trucks and flatbed trucks. They typically have a towing weight between 12,000 and 20,000 pounds and a tongue weight capacity between 1,200 and 1,700 pounds.
Gooseneck
The last ball hitch we'll talk about is the gooseneck hitch, which is a variation of 5th-wheel hitches. The main difference is that 5th-wheel hitches are too big to use the receiver hitch. However, gooseneck hitches are designed to let you use the full bed of your truck, plus some have a ball that is removable.
Buy this Gooseneck Hitch
These are a different type of hitch entirely. If what you're towing comes with a lunette ring, you can use a pintle hitch to latch onto it. This is much better for off-roading than ball hitches as it offers more versatility and mobility.
\nFinally, there is often a hitch for those who can't decide between pintle and ball hitches. They do this by being both. There are more types, but with the basics listed, we can help you choose what's best for you.
Buy this Tri-Ball Hitch
The most important thing you need to keep in mind is that your vehicle is what determines what kind of hitch you can get. What class of hitch you can get is highly dependent on what type of car you own, and the brand of hitch you can get depends on the make and model of your car. Ensure you look at what your owner's manual has to say before deciding what type of hitch to get.
\nDepending on what you're using a hitch for and how often you're using a hitch, you may need to look for something with a little extra added to it. For example, if you're going to be doing a lot of off-road towing in environments where corrosion is pretty prevalent, you may want to look into powder-coated hitches that will let the hitch last longer.
\nYou will also need to look into special devices depending on what you're towing. For example, you may want to invest in a weight distribution hitch in case what you are towing is extremely heavy. This will protect your rear axle. You may also want to look into a sway bar to prevent what you're towing from swaying too much, either due to the wind or due to a steep turn.
\nWith all this information, all you need to do is look into finding somebody to install it, and you're good to go. Knowing your specific situation is key to figuring out what kind of hitch you'll need. You can find whatever hitch you're looking for at Zip's AW Direct.
\nBefore any of that, if you're new to hitches, you may need a little vocabulary lesson before diving into the details. For example, tongue weight capacity is the amount of weight the hitch can take directly on top of it, while towing capacity is the amount that the hitch can tow.
\nThere are a variety of hitches, but to start, let's go over the basic types of hitches and what their weight capacities are.
\nClass 1
These hitches are typically used for bikes or small cargo carriers. They can tow up to 2,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 100 to 150 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These hitches work with a variety of vehicles, like compact or mid-size cars.
Shop all Class 1 Hitches
Class 2
These hitches are a step up. They have a towing capacity of up to 3,500 pounds, and depending on the vehicle, a tongue weight capacity between 200 and 350 pounds. However, they need bigger cars to handle them. They are installed onto the undercarriage of mid-size cars, SUVs, minivans and compact trucks. They're perfect for ATVs, small boats and motorcycles.
Shop all Class 2 Hitches
Class 3
These hitches are the first that are considered heavy-duty hitches. They can tow up to 10,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 350 to 500 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These are designed to be used on larger vehicles like pick-up trucks, SUVs and vans. These are great for towing campers and cargo-carrying flatbeds.
Shop all Class 3 Hitches
Class 4
These hitches are meant for your bigger jobs. The vehicle can tow heavy loads, up to 14,000 pounds. It can also handle a tongue weight of 500 pounds or more. The specific tongue weight capacity depends on the vehicle. These can only really be used by full-sized pickups or large SUVs. They typically require a 2 or 2.5-inch receiver to fully attach it.
Shop all Class 4 Hitches
5th-Wheel
These hitches are for people who need the most heavy-duty hitches around. They designed these massive hitches for pickup trucks and flatbed trucks. They typically have a towing weight between 12,000 and 20,000 pounds and a tongue weight capacity between 1,200 and 1,700 pounds.
Gooseneck
The last ball hitch we'll talk about is the gooseneck hitch, which is a variation of 5th-wheel hitches. The main difference is that 5th-wheel hitches are too big to use the receiver hitch. However, gooseneck hitches are designed to let you use the full bed of your truck, plus some have a ball that is removable.
Buy this Gooseneck Hitch
These are a different type of hitch entirely. If what you're towing comes with a lunette ring, you can use a pintle hitch to latch onto it. This is much better for off-roading than ball hitches as it offers more versatility and mobility.
\nFinally, there is often a hitch for those who can't decide between pintle and ball hitches. They do this by being both. There are more types, but with the basics listed, we can help you choose what's best for you.
Buy this Tri-Ball Hitch
The most important thing you need to keep in mind is that your vehicle is what determines what kind of hitch you can get. What class of hitch you can get is highly dependent on what type of car you own, and the brand of hitch you can get depends on the make and model of your car. Ensure you look at what your owner's manual has to say before deciding what type of hitch to get.
\nDepending on what you're using a hitch for and how often you're using a hitch, you may need to look for something with a little extra added to it. For example, if you're going to be doing a lot of off-road towing in environments where corrosion is pretty prevalent, you may want to look into powder-coated hitches that will let the hitch last longer.
\nYou will also need to look into special devices depending on what you're towing. For example, you may want to invest in a weight distribution hitch in case what you are towing is extremely heavy. This will protect your rear axle. You may also want to look into a sway bar to prevent what you're towing from swaying too much, either due to the wind or due to a steep turn.
\nWith all this information, all you need to do is look into finding somebody to install it, and you're good to go. Knowing your specific situation is key to figuring out what kind of hitch you'll need. You can find whatever hitch you're looking for at Zip's AW Direct.
\nBefore any of that, if you're new to hitches, you may need a little vocabulary lesson before diving into the details. For example, tongue weight capacity is the amount of weight the hitch can take directly on top of it, while towing capacity is the amount that the hitch can tow.
\nThere are a variety of hitches, but to start, let's go over the basic types of hitches and what their weight capacities are.
\nClass 1
These hitches are typically used for bikes or small cargo carriers. They can tow up to 2,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 100 to 150 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These hitches work with a variety of vehicles, like compact or mid-size cars.
Shop all Class 1 Hitches
Class 2
These hitches are a step up. They have a towing capacity of up to 3,500 pounds, and depending on the vehicle, a tongue weight capacity between 200 and 350 pounds. However, they need bigger cars to handle them. They are installed onto the undercarriage of mid-size cars, SUVs, minivans and compact trucks. They're perfect for ATVs, small boats and motorcycles.
Shop all Class 2 Hitches
Class 3
These hitches are the first that are considered heavy-duty hitches. They can tow up to 10,000 pounds and support a tongue weight of 350 to 500 pounds, depending on the vehicle. These are designed to be used on larger vehicles like pick-up trucks, SUVs and vans. These are great for towing campers and cargo-carrying flatbeds.
Shop all Class 3 Hitches
Class 4
These hitches are meant for your bigger jobs. The vehicle can tow heavy loads, up to 14,000 pounds. It can also handle a tongue weight of 500 pounds or more. The specific tongue weight capacity depends on the vehicle. These can only really be used by full-sized pickups or large SUVs. They typically require a 2 or 2.5-inch receiver to fully attach it.
Shop all Class 4 Hitches
5th-Wheel
These hitches are for people who need the most heavy-duty hitches around. They designed these massive hitches for pickup trucks and flatbed trucks. They typically have a towing weight between 12,000 and 20,000 pounds and a tongue weight capacity between 1,200 and 1,700 pounds.
Gooseneck
The last ball hitch we'll talk about is the gooseneck hitch, which is a variation of 5th-wheel hitches. The main difference is that 5th-wheel hitches are too big to use the receiver hitch. However, gooseneck hitches are designed to let you use the full bed of your truck, plus some have a ball that is removable.
Buy this Gooseneck Hitch
These are a different type of hitch entirely. If what you're towing comes with a lunette ring, you can use a pintle hitch to latch onto it. This is much better for off-roading than ball hitches as it offers more versatility and mobility.
\nFinally, there is often a hitch for those who can't decide between pintle and ball hitches. They do this by being both. There are more types, but with the basics listed, we can help you choose what's best for you.
Buy this Tri-Ball Hitch
The most important thing you need to keep in mind is that your vehicle is what determines what kind of hitch you can get. What class of hitch you can get is highly dependent on what type of car you own, and the brand of hitch you can get depends on the make and model of your car. Ensure you look at what your owner's manual has to say before deciding what type of hitch to get.
\nDepending on what you're using a hitch for and how often you're using a hitch, you may need to look for something with a little extra added to it. For example, if you're going to be doing a lot of off-road towing in environments where corrosion is pretty prevalent, you may want to look into powder-coated hitches that will let the hitch last longer.
\nYou will also need to look into special devices depending on what you're towing. For example, you may want to invest in a weight distribution hitch in case what you are towing is extremely heavy. This will protect your rear axle. You may also want to look into a sway bar to prevent what you're towing from swaying too much, either due to the wind or due to a steep turn.
\nWith all this information, all you need to do is look into finding somebody to install it, and you're good to go. Knowing your specific situation is key to figuring out what kind of hitch you'll need. You can find whatever hitch you're looking for at Zip's AW Direct.
\n\n
A ratchet strap is an adjustable strap used to secure freight, vehicles, materials and equipment for transport. Each assembly includes a short strap attached to a ratchet and a long strap to reach over the load. Both sections include an end hook fitting to secure the cargo to the other side of the truck or trailer.
\nMade from polyester webbing, the straps are available in varying widths. Professional truck drivers typically use 3”W and 4”W straps to secure their freight on flatbeds or inside van trailers, while tow operators commonly use 2”W straps on their car carriers and wheel lifts. Weekend warriors often use 1”W straps to tie down off-road recreational vehicles.
\n![\"straps-1200x380\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/straps-1200x380.png\")
The size of the strap dictates the amount of weight it can secure, otherwise known as the Working Load Limit (WLL). Each strap should have its stated capacity stitched into the webbing or affixed to an identification label. For obvious safety considerations, the WLL should be never be exceeded. Here are some common per/strap capacities:
\n\n
Like the WLL, hook attachments on ratchet strap assemblies can vary as well, depending on the type of equipment or freight you are hauling and the type of truck or trailer you are using to haul it. Perhaps the most common hook fitting for all straps is the Double J hook. Here are some specific applications for various trailers and decks:
\n![\"hero-600x300\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/hero-600x320.png\")
In addition to the end hook fitting, the length of strap is another consideration. Truck drivers typically need 20’ of length, while the recreational enthusiasts can usually get by with 12’. The length you need, again, depends on what you’re hauling. Please note the length does not affect the WLL.
","rss_summary":"\n
A ratchet strap is an adjustable strap used to secure freight, vehicles, materials and equipment for transport. Each assembly includes a short strap attached to a ratchet and a long strap to reach over the load. Both sections include an end hook fitting to secure the cargo to the other side of the truck or trailer.
\nMade from polyester webbing, the straps are available in varying widths. Professional truck drivers typically use 3”W and 4”W straps to secure their freight on flatbeds or inside van trailers, while tow operators commonly use 2”W straps on their car carriers and wheel lifts. Weekend warriors often use 1”W straps to tie down off-road recreational vehicles.
\n
The size of the strap dictates the amount of weight it can secure, otherwise known as the Working Load Limit (WLL). Each strap should have its stated capacity stitched into the webbing or affixed to an identification label. For obvious safety considerations, the WLL should be never be exceeded. Here are some common per/strap capacities:
\n\n
Like the WLL, hook attachments on ratchet strap assemblies can vary as well, depending on the type of equipment or freight you are hauling and the type of truck or trailer you are using to haul it. Perhaps the most common hook fitting for all straps is the Double J hook. Here are some specific applications for various trailers and decks:
\nIn addition to the end hook fitting, the length of strap is another consideration. Truck drivers typically need 20’ of length, while the recreational enthusiasts can usually get by with 12’. The length you need, again, depends on what you’re hauling. Please note the length does not affect the WLL.
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Covers sizing, working load limits, hook types, typical applications, and safety tips for professional and recreational users.","metaKeywords":null,"name":"Guide to Ratchet Strap Selection","nextPostFeaturedImage":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-50117-10-1-web.jpg","nextPostFeaturedImageAltText":"","nextPostName":"Must-Have Cargo Hauling Accessories","nextPostSlug":"blog/must-have-hauling-accessories","pageExpiryDate":null,"pageExpiryEnabled":null,"pageExpiryRedirectId":null,"pageExpiryRedirectUrl":null,"pageRedirected":false,"pageTitle":"Guide to Ratchet Strap Selection","parentBlog":{"absoluteUrl":"/blog","allowComments":true,"ampBodyColor":"#404040","ampBodyFont":"'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif","ampBodyFontSize":"18","ampCustomCss":"","ampHeaderBackgroundColor":"#ffffff","ampHeaderColor":"#1e1e1e","ampHeaderFont":"'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 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A ratchet strap is an adjustable strap used to secure freight, vehicles, materials and equipment for transport. Each assembly includes a short strap attached to a ratchet and a long strap to reach over the load. Both sections include an end hook fitting to secure the cargo to the other side of the truck or trailer.
\nMade from polyester webbing, the straps are available in varying widths. Professional truck drivers typically use 3”W and 4”W straps to secure their freight on flatbeds or inside van trailers, while tow operators commonly use 2”W straps on their car carriers and wheel lifts. Weekend warriors often use 1”W straps to tie down off-road recreational vehicles.
\n
The size of the strap dictates the amount of weight it can secure, otherwise known as the Working Load Limit (WLL). Each strap should have its stated capacity stitched into the webbing or affixed to an identification label. For obvious safety considerations, the WLL should be never be exceeded. Here are some common per/strap capacities:
\n\n
Like the WLL, hook attachments on ratchet strap assemblies can vary as well, depending on the type of equipment or freight you are hauling and the type of truck or trailer you are using to haul it. Perhaps the most common hook fitting for all straps is the Double J hook. Here are some specific applications for various trailers and decks:
\nIn addition to the end hook fitting, the length of strap is another consideration. Truck drivers typically need 20’ of length, while the recreational enthusiasts can usually get by with 12’. The length you need, again, depends on what you’re hauling. Please note the length does not affect the WLL.
","postBodyRss":"\n
A ratchet strap is an adjustable strap used to secure freight, vehicles, materials and equipment for transport. Each assembly includes a short strap attached to a ratchet and a long strap to reach over the load. Both sections include an end hook fitting to secure the cargo to the other side of the truck or trailer.
\nMade from polyester webbing, the straps are available in varying widths. Professional truck drivers typically use 3”W and 4”W straps to secure their freight on flatbeds or inside van trailers, while tow operators commonly use 2”W straps on their car carriers and wheel lifts. Weekend warriors often use 1”W straps to tie down off-road recreational vehicles.
\n
The size of the strap dictates the amount of weight it can secure, otherwise known as the Working Load Limit (WLL). Each strap should have its stated capacity stitched into the webbing or affixed to an identification label. For obvious safety considerations, the WLL should be never be exceeded. Here are some common per/strap capacities:
\n\n
Like the WLL, hook attachments on ratchet strap assemblies can vary as well, depending on the type of equipment or freight you are hauling and the type of truck or trailer you are using to haul it. Perhaps the most common hook fitting for all straps is the Double J hook. Here are some specific applications for various trailers and decks:
\nIn addition to the end hook fitting, the length of strap is another consideration. Truck drivers typically need 20’ of length, while the recreational enthusiasts can usually get by with 12’. The length you need, again, depends on what you’re hauling. Please note the length does not affect the WLL.
","postEmailContent":"\n
A ratchet strap is an adjustable strap used to secure freight, vehicles, materials and equipment for transport. Each assembly includes a short strap attached to a ratchet and a long strap to reach over the load. Both sections include an end hook fitting to secure the cargo to the other side of the truck or trailer.
\nMade from polyester webbing, the straps are available in varying widths. Professional truck drivers typically use 3”W and 4”W straps to secure their freight on flatbeds or inside van trailers, while tow operators commonly use 2”W straps on their car carriers and wheel lifts. Weekend warriors often use 1”W straps to tie down off-road recreational vehicles.
\n
The size of the strap dictates the amount of weight it can secure, otherwise known as the Working Load Limit (WLL). Each strap should have its stated capacity stitched into the webbing or affixed to an identification label. For obvious safety considerations, the WLL should be never be exceeded. Here are some common per/strap capacities:
\n\n
Like the WLL, hook attachments on ratchet strap assemblies can vary as well, depending on the type of equipment or freight you are hauling and the type of truck or trailer you are using to haul it. Perhaps the most common hook fitting for all straps is the Double J hook. Here are some specific applications for various trailers and decks:
\nIn addition to the end hook fitting, the length of strap is another consideration. Truck drivers typically need 20’ of length, while the recreational enthusiasts can usually get by with 12’. The length you need, again, depends on what you’re hauling. Please note the length does not affect the WLL.
","rssSummary":"Hauling flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
\n","post_body":"Hauling flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
\n\nYou already know about our durable straps and chains. In today’s blog, we are going to look at the types of accessories that can make any tie-down job easier. We call them ‘must-haves’. Find room in your storage compartments for these hand-picked favorites that can help your flatbed operation.
\nOnce you have tightened down your chain, make sure the chain binder lever binder stays put. Using the Ancra Binder Lock you can lock the lever in place. Featuring a two-position pin, this metal lock prevents the accidental release of the lever in transit.
\n![\"ai-50117-10-1-web\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-50117-10-1-web.jpg\")
\nWe’ve all seen the tail of a winch strap flying in the wind behind a trailer. Don’t be that driver. Zip’s AW Direct offers three types of strap winders. They store excess webbing neatly behind the winch cap and keep it from becoming a streamer.
\nWhen you’re empty or don’t need all of your ratchet straps, make sure you keep them organized. Don’t create a rat’s nest in your storage compartment with loose straps. Count on Ancra Storage Bands to keep them rolled tightly so they can be stacked and stored with ease.
\n![\"ai-50433-10-web\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-50433-10-web.jpg\")
\nYour loaded trailer can reach as high as 13’6”. Throwing straps, chains and tarps over that stack of freight can be challenging. Use the All-Grip Telescoping Retrieval and Rigging Tool to get your tie-down gear where it needs to get. This lightweight aluminum pole extends to 8’ and locks into position for easy maneuverability.
\n![\"all-grip-telescoping-tool\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/all-grip-telescoping-tool.png\")
\nYour freight comes in all shapes and sizes. When it shows up as pallets, building materials and angle iron, make sure you have corner protectors to shield your straps from cuts and abrasions. Zip’s AW Direct offers 13 different options to add a layer of defense against sharp corners and edges.
\nSometimes, your freight doesn’t fit the width of your trailer. To maintain compliance with DOT regulations, you need to notify other motorists of your oversized load. If that’s the case, Zip’s AW Direct offers several different options for reversible banners to address the situation.
\n![\"zol1472v-sr-2-zips-wide-oversize-load-sign-reverse-web\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/zol1472v-sr-2-zips-wide-oversize-load-sign-reverse-web.jpg\")
\n\n![\"ai-49894-15-web-1\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-49894-15-web-1.jpg\")
\n\nDon’t throw your arm out tossing heavy straps over your flatbed freight. Use the Toss ‘N Tie from Ancra to get your straps where they need to go. Attach the carabiner to a strap end and then toss the much lighter nylon string and rubber reel over the freight. Then go to the other side and pull the tie-down strap over.
\n![\"ai-50409-10-web\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-50409-10-web.jpg\")
\nTarping your load is likely the least desirable aspect of your job. Don’t add to the frustration by causing tears and holes in your expensive tarps. Use Ancra’s Tarp Protector to soften corners and prevent cuts and abrasions. This plastic pyramid makes contact with each surface and the rounded tip won’t pierce straps or fabric.
\n![\"ai-49913-1042ba335459ba668cbcc4ff0000ad64cd\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-49913-1042ba335459ba668cbcc4ff0000ad64cd.jpg\")
\nWe hope you find these accessories useful and beneficial to your operation. You can browse more options by visiting the Cargo Control section at Zips.com. Just remember, the most important tip is making sure you have the right tools to perform your job safely and efficiently.
","rss_summary":"Hauling flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
\n","rss_body":"Hauling flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
\n\nYou already know about our durable straps and chains. In today’s blog, we are going to look at the types of accessories that can make any tie-down job easier. We call them ‘must-haves’. Find room in your storage compartments for these hand-picked favorites that can help your flatbed operation.
\nOnce you have tightened down your chain, make sure the chain binder lever binder stays put. Using the Ancra Binder Lock you can lock the lever in place. Featuring a two-position pin, this metal lock prevents the accidental release of the lever in transit.
\n \nWe’ve all seen the tail of a winch strap flying in the wind behind a trailer. Don’t be that driver. Zip’s AW Direct offers three types of strap winders. They store excess webbing neatly behind the winch cap and keep it from becoming a streamer.
\nWhen you’re empty or don’t need all of your ratchet straps, make sure you keep them organized. Don’t create a rat’s nest in your storage compartment with loose straps. Count on Ancra Storage Bands to keep them rolled tightly so they can be stacked and stored with ease.
\n \nYour loaded trailer can reach as high as 13’6”. Throwing straps, chains and tarps over that stack of freight can be challenging. Use the All-Grip Telescoping Retrieval and Rigging Tool to get your tie-down gear where it needs to get. This lightweight aluminum pole extends to 8’ and locks into position for easy maneuverability.
\n \nYour freight comes in all shapes and sizes. When it shows up as pallets, building materials and angle iron, make sure you have corner protectors to shield your straps from cuts and abrasions. Zip’s AW Direct offers 13 different options to add a layer of defense against sharp corners and edges.
\nSometimes, your freight doesn’t fit the width of your trailer. To maintain compliance with DOT regulations, you need to notify other motorists of your oversized load. If that’s the case, Zip’s AW Direct offers several different options for reversible banners to address the situation.
\n \n\n \n\nDon’t throw your arm out tossing heavy straps over your flatbed freight. Use the Toss ‘N Tie from Ancra to get your straps where they need to go. Attach the carabiner to a strap end and then toss the much lighter nylon string and rubber reel over the freight. Then go to the other side and pull the tie-down strap over.
\n \nTarping your load is likely the least desirable aspect of your job. Don’t add to the frustration by causing tears and holes in your expensive tarps. Use Ancra’s Tarp Protector to soften corners and prevent cuts and abrasions. This plastic pyramid makes contact with each surface and the rounded tip won’t pierce straps or fabric.
\n \nWe hope you find these accessories useful and beneficial to your operation. You can browse more options by visiting the Cargo Control section at Zips.com. Just remember, the most important tip is making sure you have the right tools to perform your job safely and efficiently.
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flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
\n\nYou already know about our durable straps and chains. In today’s blog, we are going to look at the types of accessories that can make any tie-down job easier. We call them ‘must-haves’. Find room in your storage compartments for these hand-picked favorites that can help your flatbed operation.
\nOnce you have tightened down your chain, make sure the chain binder lever binder stays put. Using the Ancra Binder Lock you can lock the lever in place. Featuring a two-position pin, this metal lock prevents the accidental release of the lever in transit.
\n \nWe’ve all seen the tail of a winch strap flying in the wind behind a trailer. Don’t be that driver. Zip’s AW Direct offers three types of strap winders. They store excess webbing neatly behind the winch cap and keep it from becoming a streamer.
\nWhen you’re empty or don’t need all of your ratchet straps, make sure you keep them organized. Don’t create a rat’s nest in your storage compartment with loose straps. Count on Ancra Storage Bands to keep them rolled tightly so they can be stacked and stored with ease.
\n \nYour loaded trailer can reach as high as 13’6”. Throwing straps, chains and tarps over that stack of freight can be challenging. Use the All-Grip Telescoping Retrieval and Rigging Tool to get your tie-down gear where it needs to get. This lightweight aluminum pole extends to 8’ and locks into position for easy maneuverability.
\n \nYour freight comes in all shapes and sizes. When it shows up as pallets, building materials and angle iron, make sure you have corner protectors to shield your straps from cuts and abrasions. Zip’s AW Direct offers 13 different options to add a layer of defense against sharp corners and edges.
\nSometimes, your freight doesn’t fit the width of your trailer. To maintain compliance with DOT regulations, you need to notify other motorists of your oversized load. If that’s the case, Zip’s AW Direct offers several different options for reversible banners to address the situation.
\n \n\n \n\nDon’t throw your arm out tossing heavy straps over your flatbed freight. Use the Toss ‘N Tie from Ancra to get your straps where they need to go. Attach the carabiner to a strap end and then toss the much lighter nylon string and rubber reel over the freight. Then go to the other side and pull the tie-down strap over.
\n \nTarping your load is likely the least desirable aspect of your job. Don’t add to the frustration by causing tears and holes in your expensive tarps. Use Ancra’s Tarp Protector to soften corners and prevent cuts and abrasions. This plastic pyramid makes contact with each surface and the rounded tip won’t pierce straps or fabric.
\n \nWe hope you find these accessories useful and beneficial to your operation. You can browse more options by visiting the Cargo Control section at Zips.com. Just remember, the most important tip is making sure you have the right tools to perform your job safely and efficiently.
","postBodyRss":"Hauling flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
\n\nYou already know about our durable straps and chains. In today’s blog, we are going to look at the types of accessories that can make any tie-down job easier. We call them ‘must-haves’. Find room in your storage compartments for these hand-picked favorites that can help your flatbed operation.
\nOnce you have tightened down your chain, make sure the chain binder lever binder stays put. Using the Ancra Binder Lock you can lock the lever in place. Featuring a two-position pin, this metal lock prevents the accidental release of the lever in transit.
\n \nWe’ve all seen the tail of a winch strap flying in the wind behind a trailer. Don’t be that driver. Zip’s AW Direct offers three types of strap winders. They store excess webbing neatly behind the winch cap and keep it from becoming a streamer.
\nWhen you’re empty or don’t need all of your ratchet straps, make sure you keep them organized. Don’t create a rat’s nest in your storage compartment with loose straps. Count on Ancra Storage Bands to keep them rolled tightly so they can be stacked and stored with ease.
\n \nYour loaded trailer can reach as high as 13’6”. Throwing straps, chains and tarps over that stack of freight can be challenging. Use the All-Grip Telescoping Retrieval and Rigging Tool to get your tie-down gear where it needs to get. This lightweight aluminum pole extends to 8’ and locks into position for easy maneuverability.
\n \nYour freight comes in all shapes and sizes. When it shows up as pallets, building materials and angle iron, make sure you have corner protectors to shield your straps from cuts and abrasions. Zip’s AW Direct offers 13 different options to add a layer of defense against sharp corners and edges.
\nSometimes, your freight doesn’t fit the width of your trailer. To maintain compliance with DOT regulations, you need to notify other motorists of your oversized load. If that’s the case, Zip’s AW Direct offers several different options for reversible banners to address the situation.
\n \n\n \n\nDon’t throw your arm out tossing heavy straps over your flatbed freight. Use the Toss ‘N Tie from Ancra to get your straps where they need to go. Attach the carabiner to a strap end and then toss the much lighter nylon string and rubber reel over the freight. Then go to the other side and pull the tie-down strap over.
\n \nTarping your load is likely the least desirable aspect of your job. Don’t add to the frustration by causing tears and holes in your expensive tarps. Use Ancra’s Tarp Protector to soften corners and prevent cuts and abrasions. This plastic pyramid makes contact with each surface and the rounded tip won’t pierce straps or fabric.
\n \nWe hope you find these accessories useful and beneficial to your operation. You can browse more options by visiting the Cargo Control section at Zips.com. Just remember, the most important tip is making sure you have the right tools to perform your job safely and efficiently.
","postEmailContent":"Hauling flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
","postFeaturedImageIfEnabled":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-50117-10-1-web.jpg","postListContent":"Hauling flatbed freight can be tricky. Make sure you have the right tools and cargo control accessories to help simplify the process. Zip’s AW Direct offers a full line of Cargo Control products. These products protect your load, assist in tarping and keep everything secure.
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\n\nYou already know about our durable straps and chains. In today’s blog, we are going to look at the types of accessories that can make any tie-down job easier. We call them ‘must-haves’. Find room in your storage compartments for these hand-picked favorites that can help your flatbed operation.
\nOnce you have tightened down your chain, make sure the chain binder lever binder stays put. Using the Ancra Binder Lock you can lock the lever in place. Featuring a two-position pin, this metal lock prevents the accidental release of the lever in transit.
\n \nWe’ve all seen the tail of a winch strap flying in the wind behind a trailer. Don’t be that driver. Zip’s AW Direct offers three types of strap winders. They store excess webbing neatly behind the winch cap and keep it from becoming a streamer.
\nWhen you’re empty or don’t need all of your ratchet straps, make sure you keep them organized. Don’t create a rat’s nest in your storage compartment with loose straps. Count on Ancra Storage Bands to keep them rolled tightly so they can be stacked and stored with ease.
\n \nYour loaded trailer can reach as high as 13’6”. Throwing straps, chains and tarps over that stack of freight can be challenging. Use the All-Grip Telescoping Retrieval and Rigging Tool to get your tie-down gear where it needs to get. This lightweight aluminum pole extends to 8’ and locks into position for easy maneuverability.
\n \nYour freight comes in all shapes and sizes. When it shows up as pallets, building materials and angle iron, make sure you have corner protectors to shield your straps from cuts and abrasions. Zip’s AW Direct offers 13 different options to add a layer of defense against sharp corners and edges.
\nSometimes, your freight doesn’t fit the width of your trailer. To maintain compliance with DOT regulations, you need to notify other motorists of your oversized load. If that’s the case, Zip’s AW Direct offers several different options for reversible banners to address the situation.
\n \n\n \n\nDon’t throw your arm out tossing heavy straps over your flatbed freight. Use the Toss ‘N Tie from Ancra to get your straps where they need to go. Attach the carabiner to a strap end and then toss the much lighter nylon string and rubber reel over the freight. Then go to the other side and pull the tie-down strap over.
\n \nTarping your load is likely the least desirable aspect of your job. Don’t add to the frustration by causing tears and holes in your expensive tarps. Use Ancra’s Tarp Protector to soften corners and prevent cuts and abrasions. This plastic pyramid makes contact with each surface and the rounded tip won’t pierce straps or fabric.
\n \nWe hope you find these accessories useful and beneficial to your operation. You can browse more options by visiting the Cargo Control section at Zips.com. Just remember, the most important tip is making sure you have the right tools to perform your job safely and efficiently.
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Tips to Maintain Your Industrial Trailer","id":192171259540,"includeDefaultCustomCss":null,"isCaptchaRequired":true,"isCrawlableByBots":false,"isDraft":false,"isInstantEmailEnabled":false,"isPublished":true,"isSocialPublishingEnabled":false,"keywords":[],"label":"10 Tips to Maintain Your Industrial Trailer","language":"en","lastEditSessionId":null,"lastEditUpdateId":null,"layoutSections":{},"legacyBlogTabid":null,"legacyId":null,"legacyPostGuid":null,"linkRelCanonicalUrl":"","listTemplate":"","liveDomain":"www.zips.com","mab":false,"mabExperimentId":null,"mabMaster":false,"mabVariant":false,"marketingCampaignGuids":[],"meta":{"html_title":"10 Tips to Maintain Your Industrial Trailer","public_access_rules":[],"public_access_rules_enabled":false,"use_featured_image":true,"tag_ids":[192169769098,192174572390,194718191195,194719179289],"topic_ids":[192169769098,192174572390,194718191195,194719179289],"post_summary":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n","post_body":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n\nIn today’s blog, we are going to look at the 10 most common areas to address. These tips of all types of trailers including your lowboy, dropdeck or traveling axle trailer. Some tips should already be part of your daily inspection routine. Others may occur during PMs, and some need to be completed at other regularly-scheduled intervals.
\nFind the schedule that works the best for you and your fleet’s operation. The key takeaway here is to not ignore issues or put off routine maintenance. Preventative maintenance measures can ultimately save you time and money and preserve your reputation as a dependable carrier. Let’s start our rundown where the rubber meets the road.
\n1. Wheel torque
\n![\"Wheel](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/1-600x400.png\")
\nRust streaks on the surface of your rim are a tell-tale sign of loose lugnuts and possible issues. Make sure you keep your lugnuts tight and secure by properly torquing them to manufacturer specifications. Correct torque settings prevent tire, axle and bearing wear, especially following a hub service or the arrival of a new trailer.
\nWhen mounting a set of tandems, be careful not to damage the wheel studs and make sure the valve stem for the inner wheel is accessible from the outside wheel hole. Tighten the nuts by following an alternating criss-cross pattern to an initial setting of 50 ft.-lbs. Once the wheel set is snug, torque the lugnuts to the final setting of 450-500 ft.-lbs. following the same rotation.
\n2. Hub inspection
\n![\"2-405x270\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/2-405x270.png\")
\nSimilar to wheel torque settings, you should also take a good look at the hub. According to manufacturers like Landoll, the wheel end contains the most “consumable service items.” Major repair costs can be occurred when components are not maintained and serviced properly.
\nDuring your visual inspection, make sure the hub oil is at the recommended level on the sight glass and fill accordingly. Excessive hub temperature is a sign of poor lubrication and low oil levels. During your pre-trip, be sure to look for oil leaking on the inside of the rim and on brake components.
You should also keep an eye out for loose, damaged or missing fasteners. If you discover any, put the trailer out of service if any of these defective conditions are present.
3. Suspension overview
\n![\"Suspension](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/3-suspension.jpg\")
\nWhile still under the trailer, proceed next to suspension components, once again looking for loose, cracked or broken parts and verifying torque specifications on all nuts, bolts and fittings. Air bags should also be inspected for equal firmness, and leaf springs should be scanned for cracks. Refer to the trailer manufacturer’s manual for further instructions.
\n4. Tire alignment
\n![\"Tire](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/4-tire-alignment.jpg\")
\nAfter looking at your trailer’s lugnuts, wheel bearings, hubs and suspension, take a minute to check the tire pressure and the wear patterns on your trailer tires. Many industrial trailers offer tire inflation systems to maintain tire pressure. A quick check with an inflation gauge will prevent a roadside repair farther down the highway.
\nIf you see signs of uneven tread wear, notify shop personnel. The trailer may be out of alignment or may be suffering from a damaged suspension or axle component. Scuffed tires or tires with feathered edges could be a sign of negative camber and should be addressed by certified technicians.
\nAccording to trailer manufacturer Landoll, proper axle-to-kingpin alignment is “necessary to obtain straight tracking.” If axle alignment is off, “dog-tracking” occurs. Check alignment manually or with a semi trailer alignment machine. A thorough inspection of the complete suspension system must be performed, and all defects need to be corrected before alignment.
\n5. Brake systems
\n![\"Brake](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/5-brakes.jpg\")
\nThe importance of stopping your trailer needs little explanation. Whether equipped with drum or disc brakes, daily brake inspections on your trailer need to be part of your dispatch routine. Most out-of-service tickets are related to brakes being out of adjustment, and most roadside DOT inspections are looking for brake system violations. Don’t risk an out-of-service ticket.
\nAt a minimum, manufacturers like Landoll recommend trailer brake systems be inspected every 500 miles. Drivers and technicians should be looking for chafing air lines, hose kinks and damaged fittings. Keep an eye out for loose, missing or corroded fasteners. As always, any defects discovered should be fixed before the trailer returns to service.
\nBrakes need compressed air to operate, so make sure your power unit’s compressor is in operational condition. The gladhands should be sealed with plumber’s tape and the rubber grommet insert is not missing or deformed. Always remember, audible air leaks do not pass inspections.
\nTo prevent ice build-up in air lines, be sure to drain the air reservoir daily. A drain cock is located on the bottom of the reservoir and allows collected water and oil to drain properly and exit the system before problems develop. Once complete, make sure the cock is sealed tightly to the bottom of the tank.
\n6. Hydraulic system
\nYour industrial trailer needs uninterrupted hydraulic fluid to function properly. Make sure you keep your tractor’s wet kit free of debris and water so fluids can flow freely without restriction. Start with a 10-micron filter and regular service changes. A well-maintained system will keep your trailer working as it should when you need it to.
\nJust like your semi’s engine oil, be sure to check the hydraulic oil level daily and look for signs of fluid contamination. Evidence or presence of foreign materials can clog your system and may require a full-system flush. Don’t let debris stop you in your tracks when you are in the middle of a delivery.
\n7. Deck condition
\n![\"Deck](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/7-deck-conditions.jpg\")
\nIt’s hard to haul flatbed freight with a compromised deck surface. Whether your trailer’s deck is made from wood, metal or a combination of both, inspect for loose sections, missing fasteners and other surface defects. Over time, the condition of your trailer’s deck can suffer from loading abuse, road vibration, weather elements and repeated washing.
\nIf primarily wood, the best way to prolong the life of your deck is to treat the wood annually with preservatives. A deep penetrating oil-based formula that repels moisture will pay itself back over time. Check with your local home improvement store or refer to the can for application instructions. Periodic recoating could prevent deck failures in the future.
\n8. Electrical connections
\n![\"8-400x240\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/8-400x240.png\")
\nThe mark of any good pre-trip inspection is working lights on both the tractor and trailer. How many times have you seen a tractor-trailer heading down the highway with a burned-out headlight or clearance light? Did the driver actually perform a walkaround inspection?
Don’t get trapped by apathy. Make sure you do your job. Just remember, if a light is on your trailer, it needs to work.
Faulty trailer lights are just the beginning of your trailer’s electrical inspection. Always check the seven-pin connection to the trailer and ensure a solid fit. The cord end should be free of debris and bent or loose pins. Additionally check for, any wire, electrical connection or electrical component showing signs of corrosion, wear, breakage or unraveling.
\n9. Roller and wear pad inspection
\n![\"9-400x240\"](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/9-400x240.png\")
\nIf your industrial trailer features a traveling axle setup, make sure you inspect the rollers and wear pads located on the undercarriage. These key components must be properly maintained to ensure smooth axle travel. If a bearing is seized and not rolling freely on the main beams, the roller could suffer a flat spot and require replacement, causing additional cost and downtime.
\nLandoll recommends lubricating rollers monthly or every 2,000 miles. Refer to your trailer owner’s manual for grease zerk locations and scheduled maintenance intervals. Wear pads need to be replaced any time unusual wear appears, compromising bolt heads and mating material.
\n10. Dock leveler maintenance
\n![\"Dock](\"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/10-dock-leveler.jpg\")
\nLastly, dock levelers round out our list of inspection points on your industrial flatbed trailer. Typically located between the rear axles, these dropdown legs provide support while loading equipment from a ramp or dock and prevent unnecessary suspension damage. Before moving a trailer, always make sure the legs are in the raised position for transport.
\nDaily use of leveler’s legs keeps the system fresh, but if your cylinders are seldomly used, you should still cycle the legs up and down at least weekly so oil circulates through the lines. This extra step ensures the leveler’s legs are ready and available when you need them.
\nLeveler legs should always be in the retracted position prior to transport. During your pre-trip inspection, you should check for loose, missing or damaged hardware. You should also look for hydraulic leaks and any unsupported lines that may be damaged. If any unsatisfactory conditions exist, put the trailer out of service for repair.
\nWe hope you find this list useful. Always refer to your trailer’s owner’s and service manuals for exact details and instructions. Inspection points may vary by manufacturer, but the intent here is to not skip a step.
Once again, drivers and fleet managers need to remain mindful of all the moving parts on a trailer. Keeping your trailer in its best shape is in everyone’s best interest.
Having the products and equipment that you’d need to inspect your trailer on-hand can be the difference between performing these inspections or not. Be sure you have the supplies you need by visiting our Auto & Truck Service department.
","rss_summary":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n","rss_body":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n\nIn today’s blog, we are going to look at the 10 most common areas to address. These tips of all types of trailers including your lowboy, dropdeck or traveling axle trailer. Some tips should already be part of your daily inspection routine. Others may occur during PMs, and some need to be completed at other regularly-scheduled intervals.
\nFind the schedule that works the best for you and your fleet’s operation. The key takeaway here is to not ignore issues or put off routine maintenance. Preventative maintenance measures can ultimately save you time and money and preserve your reputation as a dependable carrier. Let’s start our rundown where the rubber meets the road.
\n1. Wheel torque
\n\nRust streaks on the surface of your rim are a tell-tale sign of loose lugnuts and possible issues. Make sure you keep your lugnuts tight and secure by properly torquing them to manufacturer specifications. Correct torque settings prevent tire, axle and bearing wear, especially following a hub service or the arrival of a new trailer.
\nWhen mounting a set of tandems, be careful not to damage the wheel studs and make sure the valve stem for the inner wheel is accessible from the outside wheel hole. Tighten the nuts by following an alternating criss-cross pattern to an initial setting of 50 ft.-lbs. Once the wheel set is snug, torque the lugnuts to the final setting of 450-500 ft.-lbs. following the same rotation.
\n2. Hub inspection
\n\nSimilar to wheel torque settings, you should also take a good look at the hub. According to manufacturers like Landoll, the wheel end contains the most “consumable service items.” Major repair costs can be occurred when components are not maintained and serviced properly.
\nDuring your visual inspection, make sure the hub oil is at the recommended level on the sight glass and fill accordingly. Excessive hub temperature is a sign of poor lubrication and low oil levels. During your pre-trip, be sure to look for oil leaking on the inside of the rim and on brake components.
You should also keep an eye out for loose, damaged or missing fasteners. If you discover any, put the trailer out of service if any of these defective conditions are present.
3. Suspension overview
\n\nWhile still under the trailer, proceed next to suspension components, once again looking for loose, cracked or broken parts and verifying torque specifications on all nuts, bolts and fittings. Air bags should also be inspected for equal firmness, and leaf springs should be scanned for cracks. Refer to the trailer manufacturer’s manual for further instructions.
\n4. Tire alignment
\n\nAfter looking at your trailer’s lugnuts, wheel bearings, hubs and suspension, take a minute to check the tire pressure and the wear patterns on your trailer tires. Many industrial trailers offer tire inflation systems to maintain tire pressure. A quick check with an inflation gauge will prevent a roadside repair farther down the highway.
\nIf you see signs of uneven tread wear, notify shop personnel. The trailer may be out of alignment or may be suffering from a damaged suspension or axle component. Scuffed tires or tires with feathered edges could be a sign of negative camber and should be addressed by certified technicians.
\nAccording to trailer manufacturer Landoll, proper axle-to-kingpin alignment is “necessary to obtain straight tracking.” If axle alignment is off, “dog-tracking” occurs. Check alignment manually or with a semi trailer alignment machine. A thorough inspection of the complete suspension system must be performed, and all defects need to be corrected before alignment.
\n5. Brake systems
\n\nThe importance of stopping your trailer needs little explanation. Whether equipped with drum or disc brakes, daily brake inspections on your trailer need to be part of your dispatch routine. Most out-of-service tickets are related to brakes being out of adjustment, and most roadside DOT inspections are looking for brake system violations. Don’t risk an out-of-service ticket.
\nAt a minimum, manufacturers like Landoll recommend trailer brake systems be inspected every 500 miles. Drivers and technicians should be looking for chafing air lines, hose kinks and damaged fittings. Keep an eye out for loose, missing or corroded fasteners. As always, any defects discovered should be fixed before the trailer returns to service.
\nBrakes need compressed air to operate, so make sure your power unit’s compressor is in operational condition. The gladhands should be sealed with plumber’s tape and the rubber grommet insert is not missing or deformed. Always remember, audible air leaks do not pass inspections.
\nTo prevent ice build-up in air lines, be sure to drain the air reservoir daily. A drain cock is located on the bottom of the reservoir and allows collected water and oil to drain properly and exit the system before problems develop. Once complete, make sure the cock is sealed tightly to the bottom of the tank.
\n6. Hydraulic system
\nYour industrial trailer needs uninterrupted hydraulic fluid to function properly. Make sure you keep your tractor’s wet kit free of debris and water so fluids can flow freely without restriction. Start with a 10-micron filter and regular service changes. A well-maintained system will keep your trailer working as it should when you need it to.
\nJust like your semi’s engine oil, be sure to check the hydraulic oil level daily and look for signs of fluid contamination. Evidence or presence of foreign materials can clog your system and may require a full-system flush. Don’t let debris stop you in your tracks when you are in the middle of a delivery.
\n7. Deck condition
\n\nIt’s hard to haul flatbed freight with a compromised deck surface. Whether your trailer’s deck is made from wood, metal or a combination of both, inspect for loose sections, missing fasteners and other surface defects. Over time, the condition of your trailer’s deck can suffer from loading abuse, road vibration, weather elements and repeated washing.
\nIf primarily wood, the best way to prolong the life of your deck is to treat the wood annually with preservatives. A deep penetrating oil-based formula that repels moisture will pay itself back over time. Check with your local home improvement store or refer to the can for application instructions. Periodic recoating could prevent deck failures in the future.
\n8. Electrical connections
\n\nThe mark of any good pre-trip inspection is working lights on both the tractor and trailer. How many times have you seen a tractor-trailer heading down the highway with a burned-out headlight or clearance light? Did the driver actually perform a walkaround inspection?
Don’t get trapped by apathy. Make sure you do your job. Just remember, if a light is on your trailer, it needs to work.
Faulty trailer lights are just the beginning of your trailer’s electrical inspection. Always check the seven-pin connection to the trailer and ensure a solid fit. The cord end should be free of debris and bent or loose pins. Additionally check for, any wire, electrical connection or electrical component showing signs of corrosion, wear, breakage or unraveling.
\n9. Roller and wear pad inspection
\n\nIf your industrial trailer features a traveling axle setup, make sure you inspect the rollers and wear pads located on the undercarriage. These key components must be properly maintained to ensure smooth axle travel. If a bearing is seized and not rolling freely on the main beams, the roller could suffer a flat spot and require replacement, causing additional cost and downtime.
\nLandoll recommends lubricating rollers monthly or every 2,000 miles. Refer to your trailer owner’s manual for grease zerk locations and scheduled maintenance intervals. Wear pads need to be replaced any time unusual wear appears, compromising bolt heads and mating material.
\n10. Dock leveler maintenance
\n\nLastly, dock levelers round out our list of inspection points on your industrial flatbed trailer. Typically located between the rear axles, these dropdown legs provide support while loading equipment from a ramp or dock and prevent unnecessary suspension damage. Before moving a trailer, always make sure the legs are in the raised position for transport.
\nDaily use of leveler’s legs keeps the system fresh, but if your cylinders are seldomly used, you should still cycle the legs up and down at least weekly so oil circulates through the lines. This extra step ensures the leveler’s legs are ready and available when you need them.
\nLeveler legs should always be in the retracted position prior to transport. During your pre-trip inspection, you should check for loose, missing or damaged hardware. You should also look for hydraulic leaks and any unsupported lines that may be damaged. If any unsatisfactory conditions exist, put the trailer out of service for repair.
\nWe hope you find this list useful. Always refer to your trailer’s owner’s and service manuals for exact details and instructions. Inspection points may vary by manufacturer, but the intent here is to not skip a step.
Once again, drivers and fleet managers need to remain mindful of all the moving parts on a trailer. Keeping your trailer in its best shape is in everyone’s best interest.
Having the products and equipment that you’d need to inspect your trailer on-hand can be the difference between performing these inspections or not. Be sure you have the supplies you need by visiting our Auto & Truck Service department.
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Prevent costly repairs and ensure reliability.","metaKeywords":null,"name":"10 Tips to Maintain Your Industrial Trailer","nextPostFeaturedImage":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/nrilandingpage.jpg","nextPostFeaturedImageAltText":"","nextPostName":"Welcome, Canadian customers!","nextPostSlug":"blog/welcome-canadian-customers","pageExpiryDate":null,"pageExpiryEnabled":null,"pageExpiryRedirectId":null,"pageExpiryRedirectUrl":null,"pageRedirected":false,"pageTitle":"10 Tips to Maintain Your Industrial Trailer","parentBlog":{"absoluteUrl":"/blog","allowComments":true,"ampBodyColor":"#404040","ampBodyFont":"'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif","ampBodyFontSize":"18","ampCustomCss":"","ampHeaderBackgroundColor":"#ffffff","ampHeaderColor":"#1e1e1e","ampHeaderFont":"'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 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trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n\nIn today’s blog, we are going to look at the 10 most common areas to address. These tips of all types of trailers including your lowboy, dropdeck or traveling axle trailer. Some tips should already be part of your daily inspection routine. Others may occur during PMs, and some need to be completed at other regularly-scheduled intervals.
\nFind the schedule that works the best for you and your fleet’s operation. The key takeaway here is to not ignore issues or put off routine maintenance. Preventative maintenance measures can ultimately save you time and money and preserve your reputation as a dependable carrier. Let’s start our rundown where the rubber meets the road.
\n1. Wheel torque
\n\nRust streaks on the surface of your rim are a tell-tale sign of loose lugnuts and possible issues. Make sure you keep your lugnuts tight and secure by properly torquing them to manufacturer specifications. Correct torque settings prevent tire, axle and bearing wear, especially following a hub service or the arrival of a new trailer.
\nWhen mounting a set of tandems, be careful not to damage the wheel studs and make sure the valve stem for the inner wheel is accessible from the outside wheel hole. Tighten the nuts by following an alternating criss-cross pattern to an initial setting of 50 ft.-lbs. Once the wheel set is snug, torque the lugnuts to the final setting of 450-500 ft.-lbs. following the same rotation.
\n2. Hub inspection
\n\nSimilar to wheel torque settings, you should also take a good look at the hub. According to manufacturers like Landoll, the wheel end contains the most “consumable service items.” Major repair costs can be occurred when components are not maintained and serviced properly.
\nDuring your visual inspection, make sure the hub oil is at the recommended level on the sight glass and fill accordingly. Excessive hub temperature is a sign of poor lubrication and low oil levels. During your pre-trip, be sure to look for oil leaking on the inside of the rim and on brake components.
You should also keep an eye out for loose, damaged or missing fasteners. If you discover any, put the trailer out of service if any of these defective conditions are present.
3. Suspension overview
\n\nWhile still under the trailer, proceed next to suspension components, once again looking for loose, cracked or broken parts and verifying torque specifications on all nuts, bolts and fittings. Air bags should also be inspected for equal firmness, and leaf springs should be scanned for cracks. Refer to the trailer manufacturer’s manual for further instructions.
\n4. Tire alignment
\n\nAfter looking at your trailer’s lugnuts, wheel bearings, hubs and suspension, take a minute to check the tire pressure and the wear patterns on your trailer tires. Many industrial trailers offer tire inflation systems to maintain tire pressure. A quick check with an inflation gauge will prevent a roadside repair farther down the highway.
\nIf you see signs of uneven tread wear, notify shop personnel. The trailer may be out of alignment or may be suffering from a damaged suspension or axle component. Scuffed tires or tires with feathered edges could be a sign of negative camber and should be addressed by certified technicians.
\nAccording to trailer manufacturer Landoll, proper axle-to-kingpin alignment is “necessary to obtain straight tracking.” If axle alignment is off, “dog-tracking” occurs. Check alignment manually or with a semi trailer alignment machine. A thorough inspection of the complete suspension system must be performed, and all defects need to be corrected before alignment.
\n5. Brake systems
\n\nThe importance of stopping your trailer needs little explanation. Whether equipped with drum or disc brakes, daily brake inspections on your trailer need to be part of your dispatch routine. Most out-of-service tickets are related to brakes being out of adjustment, and most roadside DOT inspections are looking for brake system violations. Don’t risk an out-of-service ticket.
\nAt a minimum, manufacturers like Landoll recommend trailer brake systems be inspected every 500 miles. Drivers and technicians should be looking for chafing air lines, hose kinks and damaged fittings. Keep an eye out for loose, missing or corroded fasteners. As always, any defects discovered should be fixed before the trailer returns to service.
\nBrakes need compressed air to operate, so make sure your power unit’s compressor is in operational condition. The gladhands should be sealed with plumber’s tape and the rubber grommet insert is not missing or deformed. Always remember, audible air leaks do not pass inspections.
\nTo prevent ice build-up in air lines, be sure to drain the air reservoir daily. A drain cock is located on the bottom of the reservoir and allows collected water and oil to drain properly and exit the system before problems develop. Once complete, make sure the cock is sealed tightly to the bottom of the tank.
\n6. Hydraulic system
\nYour industrial trailer needs uninterrupted hydraulic fluid to function properly. Make sure you keep your tractor’s wet kit free of debris and water so fluids can flow freely without restriction. Start with a 10-micron filter and regular service changes. A well-maintained system will keep your trailer working as it should when you need it to.
\nJust like your semi’s engine oil, be sure to check the hydraulic oil level daily and look for signs of fluid contamination. Evidence or presence of foreign materials can clog your system and may require a full-system flush. Don’t let debris stop you in your tracks when you are in the middle of a delivery.
\n7. Deck condition
\n\nIt’s hard to haul flatbed freight with a compromised deck surface. Whether your trailer’s deck is made from wood, metal or a combination of both, inspect for loose sections, missing fasteners and other surface defects. Over time, the condition of your trailer’s deck can suffer from loading abuse, road vibration, weather elements and repeated washing.
\nIf primarily wood, the best way to prolong the life of your deck is to treat the wood annually with preservatives. A deep penetrating oil-based formula that repels moisture will pay itself back over time. Check with your local home improvement store or refer to the can for application instructions. Periodic recoating could prevent deck failures in the future.
\n8. Electrical connections
\n\nThe mark of any good pre-trip inspection is working lights on both the tractor and trailer. How many times have you seen a tractor-trailer heading down the highway with a burned-out headlight or clearance light? Did the driver actually perform a walkaround inspection?
Don’t get trapped by apathy. Make sure you do your job. Just remember, if a light is on your trailer, it needs to work.
Faulty trailer lights are just the beginning of your trailer’s electrical inspection. Always check the seven-pin connection to the trailer and ensure a solid fit. The cord end should be free of debris and bent or loose pins. Additionally check for, any wire, electrical connection or electrical component showing signs of corrosion, wear, breakage or unraveling.
\n9. Roller and wear pad inspection
\n\nIf your industrial trailer features a traveling axle setup, make sure you inspect the rollers and wear pads located on the undercarriage. These key components must be properly maintained to ensure smooth axle travel. If a bearing is seized and not rolling freely on the main beams, the roller could suffer a flat spot and require replacement, causing additional cost and downtime.
\nLandoll recommends lubricating rollers monthly or every 2,000 miles. Refer to your trailer owner’s manual for grease zerk locations and scheduled maintenance intervals. Wear pads need to be replaced any time unusual wear appears, compromising bolt heads and mating material.
\n10. Dock leveler maintenance
\n\nLastly, dock levelers round out our list of inspection points on your industrial flatbed trailer. Typically located between the rear axles, these dropdown legs provide support while loading equipment from a ramp or dock and prevent unnecessary suspension damage. Before moving a trailer, always make sure the legs are in the raised position for transport.
\nDaily use of leveler’s legs keeps the system fresh, but if your cylinders are seldomly used, you should still cycle the legs up and down at least weekly so oil circulates through the lines. This extra step ensures the leveler’s legs are ready and available when you need them.
\nLeveler legs should always be in the retracted position prior to transport. During your pre-trip inspection, you should check for loose, missing or damaged hardware. You should also look for hydraulic leaks and any unsupported lines that may be damaged. If any unsatisfactory conditions exist, put the trailer out of service for repair.
\nWe hope you find this list useful. Always refer to your trailer’s owner’s and service manuals for exact details and instructions. Inspection points may vary by manufacturer, but the intent here is to not skip a step.
Once again, drivers and fleet managers need to remain mindful of all the moving parts on a trailer. Keeping your trailer in its best shape is in everyone’s best interest.
Having the products and equipment that you’d need to inspect your trailer on-hand can be the difference between performing these inspections or not. Be sure you have the supplies you need by visiting our Auto & Truck Service department.
","postBodyRss":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n\nIn today’s blog, we are going to look at the 10 most common areas to address. These tips of all types of trailers including your lowboy, dropdeck or traveling axle trailer. Some tips should already be part of your daily inspection routine. Others may occur during PMs, and some need to be completed at other regularly-scheduled intervals.
\nFind the schedule that works the best for you and your fleet’s operation. The key takeaway here is to not ignore issues or put off routine maintenance. Preventative maintenance measures can ultimately save you time and money and preserve your reputation as a dependable carrier. Let’s start our rundown where the rubber meets the road.
\n1. Wheel torque
\n\nRust streaks on the surface of your rim are a tell-tale sign of loose lugnuts and possible issues. Make sure you keep your lugnuts tight and secure by properly torquing them to manufacturer specifications. Correct torque settings prevent tire, axle and bearing wear, especially following a hub service or the arrival of a new trailer.
\nWhen mounting a set of tandems, be careful not to damage the wheel studs and make sure the valve stem for the inner wheel is accessible from the outside wheel hole. Tighten the nuts by following an alternating criss-cross pattern to an initial setting of 50 ft.-lbs. Once the wheel set is snug, torque the lugnuts to the final setting of 450-500 ft.-lbs. following the same rotation.
\n2. Hub inspection
\n\nSimilar to wheel torque settings, you should also take a good look at the hub. According to manufacturers like Landoll, the wheel end contains the most “consumable service items.” Major repair costs can be occurred when components are not maintained and serviced properly.
\nDuring your visual inspection, make sure the hub oil is at the recommended level on the sight glass and fill accordingly. Excessive hub temperature is a sign of poor lubrication and low oil levels. During your pre-trip, be sure to look for oil leaking on the inside of the rim and on brake components.
You should also keep an eye out for loose, damaged or missing fasteners. If you discover any, put the trailer out of service if any of these defective conditions are present.
3. Suspension overview
\n\nWhile still under the trailer, proceed next to suspension components, once again looking for loose, cracked or broken parts and verifying torque specifications on all nuts, bolts and fittings. Air bags should also be inspected for equal firmness, and leaf springs should be scanned for cracks. Refer to the trailer manufacturer’s manual for further instructions.
\n4. Tire alignment
\n\nAfter looking at your trailer’s lugnuts, wheel bearings, hubs and suspension, take a minute to check the tire pressure and the wear patterns on your trailer tires. Many industrial trailers offer tire inflation systems to maintain tire pressure. A quick check with an inflation gauge will prevent a roadside repair farther down the highway.
\nIf you see signs of uneven tread wear, notify shop personnel. The trailer may be out of alignment or may be suffering from a damaged suspension or axle component. Scuffed tires or tires with feathered edges could be a sign of negative camber and should be addressed by certified technicians.
\nAccording to trailer manufacturer Landoll, proper axle-to-kingpin alignment is “necessary to obtain straight tracking.” If axle alignment is off, “dog-tracking” occurs. Check alignment manually or with a semi trailer alignment machine. A thorough inspection of the complete suspension system must be performed, and all defects need to be corrected before alignment.
\n5. Brake systems
\n\nThe importance of stopping your trailer needs little explanation. Whether equipped with drum or disc brakes, daily brake inspections on your trailer need to be part of your dispatch routine. Most out-of-service tickets are related to brakes being out of adjustment, and most roadside DOT inspections are looking for brake system violations. Don’t risk an out-of-service ticket.
\nAt a minimum, manufacturers like Landoll recommend trailer brake systems be inspected every 500 miles. Drivers and technicians should be looking for chafing air lines, hose kinks and damaged fittings. Keep an eye out for loose, missing or corroded fasteners. As always, any defects discovered should be fixed before the trailer returns to service.
\nBrakes need compressed air to operate, so make sure your power unit’s compressor is in operational condition. The gladhands should be sealed with plumber’s tape and the rubber grommet insert is not missing or deformed. Always remember, audible air leaks do not pass inspections.
\nTo prevent ice build-up in air lines, be sure to drain the air reservoir daily. A drain cock is located on the bottom of the reservoir and allows collected water and oil to drain properly and exit the system before problems develop. Once complete, make sure the cock is sealed tightly to the bottom of the tank.
\n6. Hydraulic system
\nYour industrial trailer needs uninterrupted hydraulic fluid to function properly. Make sure you keep your tractor’s wet kit free of debris and water so fluids can flow freely without restriction. Start with a 10-micron filter and regular service changes. A well-maintained system will keep your trailer working as it should when you need it to.
\nJust like your semi’s engine oil, be sure to check the hydraulic oil level daily and look for signs of fluid contamination. Evidence or presence of foreign materials can clog your system and may require a full-system flush. Don’t let debris stop you in your tracks when you are in the middle of a delivery.
\n7. Deck condition
\n\nIt’s hard to haul flatbed freight with a compromised deck surface. Whether your trailer’s deck is made from wood, metal or a combination of both, inspect for loose sections, missing fasteners and other surface defects. Over time, the condition of your trailer’s deck can suffer from loading abuse, road vibration, weather elements and repeated washing.
\nIf primarily wood, the best way to prolong the life of your deck is to treat the wood annually with preservatives. A deep penetrating oil-based formula that repels moisture will pay itself back over time. Check with your local home improvement store or refer to the can for application instructions. Periodic recoating could prevent deck failures in the future.
\n8. Electrical connections
\n\nThe mark of any good pre-trip inspection is working lights on both the tractor and trailer. How many times have you seen a tractor-trailer heading down the highway with a burned-out headlight or clearance light? Did the driver actually perform a walkaround inspection?
Don’t get trapped by apathy. Make sure you do your job. Just remember, if a light is on your trailer, it needs to work.
Faulty trailer lights are just the beginning of your trailer’s electrical inspection. Always check the seven-pin connection to the trailer and ensure a solid fit. The cord end should be free of debris and bent or loose pins. Additionally check for, any wire, electrical connection or electrical component showing signs of corrosion, wear, breakage or unraveling.
\n9. Roller and wear pad inspection
\n\nIf your industrial trailer features a traveling axle setup, make sure you inspect the rollers and wear pads located on the undercarriage. These key components must be properly maintained to ensure smooth axle travel. If a bearing is seized and not rolling freely on the main beams, the roller could suffer a flat spot and require replacement, causing additional cost and downtime.
\nLandoll recommends lubricating rollers monthly or every 2,000 miles. Refer to your trailer owner’s manual for grease zerk locations and scheduled maintenance intervals. Wear pads need to be replaced any time unusual wear appears, compromising bolt heads and mating material.
\n10. Dock leveler maintenance
\n\nLastly, dock levelers round out our list of inspection points on your industrial flatbed trailer. Typically located between the rear axles, these dropdown legs provide support while loading equipment from a ramp or dock and prevent unnecessary suspension damage. Before moving a trailer, always make sure the legs are in the raised position for transport.
\nDaily use of leveler’s legs keeps the system fresh, but if your cylinders are seldomly used, you should still cycle the legs up and down at least weekly so oil circulates through the lines. This extra step ensures the leveler’s legs are ready and available when you need them.
\nLeveler legs should always be in the retracted position prior to transport. During your pre-trip inspection, you should check for loose, missing or damaged hardware. You should also look for hydraulic leaks and any unsupported lines that may be damaged. If any unsatisfactory conditions exist, put the trailer out of service for repair.
\nWe hope you find this list useful. Always refer to your trailer’s owner’s and service manuals for exact details and instructions. Inspection points may vary by manufacturer, but the intent here is to not skip a step.
Once again, drivers and fleet managers need to remain mindful of all the moving parts on a trailer. Keeping your trailer in its best shape is in everyone’s best interest.
Having the products and equipment that you’d need to inspect your trailer on-hand can be the difference between performing these inspections or not. Be sure you have the supplies you need by visiting our Auto & Truck Service department.
","postEmailContent":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
","postFeaturedImageIfEnabled":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/hero-1200x450.png","postListContent":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
","postListSummaryFeaturedImage":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/hero-1200x450.png","postRssContent":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
","postRssSummaryFeaturedImage":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/hero-1200x450.png","postSummary":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n","postSummaryRss":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
","postTemplate":"zips-basic-theme/templates/blog-post.html","previewImageSrc":null,"previewKey":"oMWTkrzN","previousPostFeaturedImage":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/ai-50117-10-1-web.jpg","previousPostFeaturedImageAltText":"","previousPostName":"Must-Have Cargo Hauling Accessories","previousPostSlug":"blog/must-have-hauling-accessories","processingStatus":"PUBLISHED","propertyForDynamicPageCanonicalUrl":null,"propertyForDynamicPageFeaturedImage":null,"propertyForDynamicPageMetaDescription":null,"propertyForDynamicPageSlug":null,"propertyForDynamicPageTitle":null,"publicAccessRules":[],"publicAccessRulesEnabled":false,"publishDate":1674741600000,"publishDateLocalTime":1674741600000,"publishDateLocalized":{"date":1674741600000,"format":"medium","language":null},"publishImmediately":true,"publishTimezoneOffset":null,"publishedAt":1756222798940,"publishedByEmail":null,"publishedById":76755706,"publishedByName":null,"publishedUrl":"/blog/10-tips-to-maintain-your-industrial-trailer","resolvedDomain":"www.zips.com","resolvedLanguage":null,"rssBody":"Preventative trailer maintenance on your industrial flatbed trailer can keep your rig rolling down the road. By performing regular checks to catch and fix defects before they become problematic. This early intervention makes sure your deliveries stay on time. It also avoids service delays caused by unexpected downtime and fix-it tickets from roadside inspections.
\n\nIn today’s blog, we are going to look at the 10 most common areas to address. These tips of all types of trailers including your lowboy, dropdeck or traveling axle trailer. Some tips should already be part of your daily inspection routine. Others may occur during PMs, and some need to be completed at other regularly-scheduled intervals.
\nFind the schedule that works the best for you and your fleet’s operation. The key takeaway here is to not ignore issues or put off routine maintenance. Preventative maintenance measures can ultimately save you time and money and preserve your reputation as a dependable carrier. Let’s start our rundown where the rubber meets the road.
\n1. Wheel torque
\n\nRust streaks on the surface of your rim are a tell-tale sign of loose lugnuts and possible issues. Make sure you keep your lugnuts tight and secure by properly torquing them to manufacturer specifications. Correct torque settings prevent tire, axle and bearing wear, especially following a hub service or the arrival of a new trailer.
\nWhen mounting a set of tandems, be careful not to damage the wheel studs and make sure the valve stem for the inner wheel is accessible from the outside wheel hole. Tighten the nuts by following an alternating criss-cross pattern to an initial setting of 50 ft.-lbs. Once the wheel set is snug, torque the lugnuts to the final setting of 450-500 ft.-lbs. following the same rotation.
\n2. Hub inspection
\n\nSimilar to wheel torque settings, you should also take a good look at the hub. According to manufacturers like Landoll, the wheel end contains the most “consumable service items.” Major repair costs can be occurred when components are not maintained and serviced properly.
\nDuring your visual inspection, make sure the hub oil is at the recommended level on the sight glass and fill accordingly. Excessive hub temperature is a sign of poor lubrication and low oil levels. During your pre-trip, be sure to look for oil leaking on the inside of the rim and on brake components.
You should also keep an eye out for loose, damaged or missing fasteners. If you discover any, put the trailer out of service if any of these defective conditions are present.
3. Suspension overview
\n\nWhile still under the trailer, proceed next to suspension components, once again looking for loose, cracked or broken parts and verifying torque specifications on all nuts, bolts and fittings. Air bags should also be inspected for equal firmness, and leaf springs should be scanned for cracks. Refer to the trailer manufacturer’s manual for further instructions.
\n4. Tire alignment
\n\nAfter looking at your trailer’s lugnuts, wheel bearings, hubs and suspension, take a minute to check the tire pressure and the wear patterns on your trailer tires. Many industrial trailers offer tire inflation systems to maintain tire pressure. A quick check with an inflation gauge will prevent a roadside repair farther down the highway.
\nIf you see signs of uneven tread wear, notify shop personnel. The trailer may be out of alignment or may be suffering from a damaged suspension or axle component. Scuffed tires or tires with feathered edges could be a sign of negative camber and should be addressed by certified technicians.
\nAccording to trailer manufacturer Landoll, proper axle-to-kingpin alignment is “necessary to obtain straight tracking.” If axle alignment is off, “dog-tracking” occurs. Check alignment manually or with a semi trailer alignment machine. A thorough inspection of the complete suspension system must be performed, and all defects need to be corrected before alignment.
\n5. Brake systems
\n\nThe importance of stopping your trailer needs little explanation. Whether equipped with drum or disc brakes, daily brake inspections on your trailer need to be part of your dispatch routine. Most out-of-service tickets are related to brakes being out of adjustment, and most roadside DOT inspections are looking for brake system violations. Don’t risk an out-of-service ticket.
\nAt a minimum, manufacturers like Landoll recommend trailer brake systems be inspected every 500 miles. Drivers and technicians should be looking for chafing air lines, hose kinks and damaged fittings. Keep an eye out for loose, missing or corroded fasteners. As always, any defects discovered should be fixed before the trailer returns to service.
\nBrakes need compressed air to operate, so make sure your power unit’s compressor is in operational condition. The gladhands should be sealed with plumber’s tape and the rubber grommet insert is not missing or deformed. Always remember, audible air leaks do not pass inspections.
\nTo prevent ice build-up in air lines, be sure to drain the air reservoir daily. A drain cock is located on the bottom of the reservoir and allows collected water and oil to drain properly and exit the system before problems develop. Once complete, make sure the cock is sealed tightly to the bottom of the tank.
\n6. Hydraulic system
\nYour industrial trailer needs uninterrupted hydraulic fluid to function properly. Make sure you keep your tractor’s wet kit free of debris and water so fluids can flow freely without restriction. Start with a 10-micron filter and regular service changes. A well-maintained system will keep your trailer working as it should when you need it to.
\nJust like your semi’s engine oil, be sure to check the hydraulic oil level daily and look for signs of fluid contamination. Evidence or presence of foreign materials can clog your system and may require a full-system flush. Don’t let debris stop you in your tracks when you are in the middle of a delivery.
\n7. Deck condition
\n\nIt’s hard to haul flatbed freight with a compromised deck surface. Whether your trailer’s deck is made from wood, metal or a combination of both, inspect for loose sections, missing fasteners and other surface defects. Over time, the condition of your trailer’s deck can suffer from loading abuse, road vibration, weather elements and repeated washing.
\nIf primarily wood, the best way to prolong the life of your deck is to treat the wood annually with preservatives. A deep penetrating oil-based formula that repels moisture will pay itself back over time. Check with your local home improvement store or refer to the can for application instructions. Periodic recoating could prevent deck failures in the future.
\n8. Electrical connections
\n\nThe mark of any good pre-trip inspection is working lights on both the tractor and trailer. How many times have you seen a tractor-trailer heading down the highway with a burned-out headlight or clearance light? Did the driver actually perform a walkaround inspection?
Don’t get trapped by apathy. Make sure you do your job. Just remember, if a light is on your trailer, it needs to work.
Faulty trailer lights are just the beginning of your trailer’s electrical inspection. Always check the seven-pin connection to the trailer and ensure a solid fit. The cord end should be free of debris and bent or loose pins. Additionally check for, any wire, electrical connection or electrical component showing signs of corrosion, wear, breakage or unraveling.
\n9. Roller and wear pad inspection
\n\nIf your industrial trailer features a traveling axle setup, make sure you inspect the rollers and wear pads located on the undercarriage. These key components must be properly maintained to ensure smooth axle travel. If a bearing is seized and not rolling freely on the main beams, the roller could suffer a flat spot and require replacement, causing additional cost and downtime.
\nLandoll recommends lubricating rollers monthly or every 2,000 miles. Refer to your trailer owner’s manual for grease zerk locations and scheduled maintenance intervals. Wear pads need to be replaced any time unusual wear appears, compromising bolt heads and mating material.
\n10. Dock leveler maintenance
\n\nLastly, dock levelers round out our list of inspection points on your industrial flatbed trailer. Typically located between the rear axles, these dropdown legs provide support while loading equipment from a ramp or dock and prevent unnecessary suspension damage. Before moving a trailer, always make sure the legs are in the raised position for transport.
\nDaily use of leveler’s legs keeps the system fresh, but if your cylinders are seldomly used, you should still cycle the legs up and down at least weekly so oil circulates through the lines. This extra step ensures the leveler’s legs are ready and available when you need them.
\nLeveler legs should always be in the retracted position prior to transport. During your pre-trip inspection, you should check for loose, missing or damaged hardware. You should also look for hydraulic leaks and any unsupported lines that may be damaged. If any unsatisfactory conditions exist, put the trailer out of service for repair.
\nWe hope you find this list useful. Always refer to your trailer’s owner’s and service manuals for exact details and instructions. Inspection points may vary by manufacturer, but the intent here is to not skip a step.
Once again, drivers and fleet managers need to remain mindful of all the moving parts on a trailer. Keeping your trailer in its best shape is in everyone’s best interest.
Having the products and equipment that you’d need to inspect your trailer on-hand can be the difference between performing these inspections or not. Be sure you have the supplies you need by visiting our Auto & Truck Service department.
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\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct offers hassle-free shipping to Canada.
\nOur company is a registered Non-Resident Importer (NRI) through the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) and provides simplified shipping of our products direct to your door. Canadian customers pay the UPS Ground Shipping. We pay the duties and the brokerage fees.
\nOur goal is to provide a rich and rewarding shopping experience for our Canadian customers. Buy in confidence with us, knowing the products you order online will arrive at your doorstep when you need them.
\nZip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
","post_body":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
“We are excited about this new opportunity for our company and look forward to sharing Landoll’s extensive lineup of heavy-duty trailers with our existing and future customer base,” Zip’s President Paul Rottinghaus said.
Based in Marysville, KS, Landoll has been producing trailers and farm equipment for more than 55 years. In addition to traveling axle trailers, the company also builds detachable trailers, traveling tail trailers, bottom dump trailers, industrial tag trailers and more.
Zip’s is authorized to sell all types of Landoll trailers and replacement parts. Tow operators will find these trailers useful for large-scale recovery operations, and construction, rental and agricultural companies will appreciate how easy it is to transport their equipment with them.
Complete details are available in our Landoll Brochures and Landoll Parts Manuals. You can also visit our Industrial Trailers page at Zips.com to view our current inventory.
To purchase, contact one of our personal truck sales consultants at 800-222-6047 today. We look forward to working with you.
","rss_summary":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
","rss_body":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
“We are excited about this new opportunity for our company and look forward to sharing Landoll’s extensive lineup of heavy-duty trailers with our existing and future customer base,” Zip’s President Paul Rottinghaus said.
Based in Marysville, KS, Landoll has been producing trailers and farm equipment for more than 55 years. In addition to traveling axle trailers, the company also builds detachable trailers, traveling tail trailers, bottom dump trailers, industrial tag trailers and more.
Zip’s is authorized to sell all types of Landoll trailers and replacement parts. Tow operators will find these trailers useful for large-scale recovery operations, and construction, rental and agricultural companies will appreciate how easy it is to transport their equipment with them.
Complete details are available in our Landoll Brochures and Landoll Parts Manuals. You can also visit our Industrial Trailers page at Zips.com to view our current inventory.
To purchase, contact one of our personal truck sales consultants at 800-222-6047 today. We look forward to working with you.
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AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
“We are excited about this new opportunity for our company and look forward to sharing Landoll’s extensive lineup of heavy-duty trailers with our existing and future customer base,” Zip’s President Paul Rottinghaus said.
Based in Marysville, KS, Landoll has been producing trailers and farm equipment for more than 55 years. In addition to traveling axle trailers, the company also builds detachable trailers, traveling tail trailers, bottom dump trailers, industrial tag trailers and more.
Zip’s is authorized to sell all types of Landoll trailers and replacement parts. Tow operators will find these trailers useful for large-scale recovery operations, and construction, rental and agricultural companies will appreciate how easy it is to transport their equipment with them.
Complete details are available in our Landoll Brochures and Landoll Parts Manuals. You can also visit our Industrial Trailers page at Zips.com to view our current inventory.
To purchase, contact one of our personal truck sales consultants at 800-222-6047 today. We look forward to working with you.
","postBodyRss":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
“We are excited about this new opportunity for our company and look forward to sharing Landoll’s extensive lineup of heavy-duty trailers with our existing and future customer base,” Zip’s President Paul Rottinghaus said.
Based in Marysville, KS, Landoll has been producing trailers and farm equipment for more than 55 years. In addition to traveling axle trailers, the company also builds detachable trailers, traveling tail trailers, bottom dump trailers, industrial tag trailers and more.
Zip’s is authorized to sell all types of Landoll trailers and replacement parts. Tow operators will find these trailers useful for large-scale recovery operations, and construction, rental and agricultural companies will appreciate how easy it is to transport their equipment with them.
Complete details are available in our Landoll Brochures and Landoll Parts Manuals. You can also visit our Industrial Trailers page at Zips.com to view our current inventory.
To purchase, contact one of our personal truck sales consultants at 800-222-6047 today. We look forward to working with you.
","postEmailContent":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
","postFeaturedImageIfEnabled":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/2016-foleycat-400series-april1-construction-82.jpg","postListContent":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
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","postRssSummaryFeaturedImage":"https://48463649.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/48463649/Blog/2016-foleycat-400series-april1-construction-82.jpg","postSummary":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
","postSummaryRss":"Zip’s AW Direct became a fully authorized Landoll dealer in February of 2020. This latest addition of heavy-duty industrial trailers complements Zip’s already impressive inventory of tow trucks, industrial carriers, rollbacks and service vehicles.
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“We are excited about this new opportunity for our company and look forward to sharing Landoll’s extensive lineup of heavy-duty trailers with our existing and future customer base,” Zip’s President Paul Rottinghaus said.
Based in Marysville, KS, Landoll has been producing trailers and farm equipment for more than 55 years. In addition to traveling axle trailers, the company also builds detachable trailers, traveling tail trailers, bottom dump trailers, industrial tag trailers and more.
Zip’s is authorized to sell all types of Landoll trailers and replacement parts. Tow operators will find these trailers useful for large-scale recovery operations, and construction, rental and agricultural companies will appreciate how easy it is to transport their equipment with them.
Complete details are available in our Landoll Brochures and Landoll Parts Manuals. You can also visit our Industrial Trailers page at Zips.com to view our current inventory.
To purchase, contact one of our personal truck sales consultants at 800-222-6047 today. We look forward to working with you.
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